Rust Removal using Electrolysis

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BigWhip

BigWhip

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Here is the set-up I used for all my small parts - plastic tub, re-bar, closet rod. You can see that the battery charger lead does not have to be attached directly to the part, just clip it to the wire your part is suspended from. Later, I added more re-bar for extra surface area of electrode. Make SURE the electrical components stay completely away from the wet components, and don't allow the parts to come in contact with the electrode "cage".

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This is what you get after just a few hours of operation.

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Larger parts can be done a little at a time, but bigger tubs really aren't that expensive, and they're great for storing spare parts later.

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Have fun and be SAFE,
Jerry
 
Thanks for the links guys, I remember seeing this process done a couple years ago. But I couldn't remember exactly how to do it, I will now, both links bookmarked.

Much appreciated.
 
Did you see the guy that cleaned his block with molasses? It`s on here somewhere, I`ll post a link if I can find it.
 
This is a great process thyat works very well, but I remember something I read years ago about a system that used some kind of current to prevent rusting of your entire car. Does anyone know anything about it?
Frank H.
 
Longgone said:
That`s the one,thanks for finding that and posting it. It`s amazing what that mixture did and how bad that block was!
Click to expand...

Yes the molasses mixture works well. I am the one that did that block. Unfortunately the block had to many cracks in it to be saved.
 
I don't recall any systems per se, but if you attach a ground strap to the chassis and let it drag it will provide a discharge path for all the static buildup acheiving the same effect. I remember the city using this process on all their equipment when I was a kid. I always thought something was loose until I knew what it was. You just need keep an eye on the length over time, it will grind away.
 
I've done this quite a few times and if you don't have a sandblaster - it works every bit as good, just takes awhile longer and your best to wire wheel after to clean off residual. I use a battery charger but have noticed the leads get smokin' hot - what's up with that ?
 
rebeldart said:
I've done this quite a few times and if you don't have a sandblaster - it works every bit as good, just takes awhile longer and your best to wire wheel after to clean off residual. I use a battery charger but have noticed the leads get smokin' hot - what's up with that ?
Click to expand...


There is very little resistance in the solution so you're charger is cranking every amp it can through the circuit trying to keep up. Try putting an automotive light bulb inline...like a tail light bulb. This serves as a makeshift current limiter and will protect your charger. Works great and may prevent a nasty house fire too. I think that's even mentioned on one of the sites linked earlier in this thread.
 
This is a cool thread! I've been using evaporust,but why bother when this will be pennies to set up!

Now if I can just find a reasonably priced black oxide kit..
 
I use the little plug in transformers like chargers for battery powered rechargeable flashlights and cut the wires and add gator clips. works great with low current draw.
 
Has anyone mentioned the hydrogen hazard yet? This process will produce lots of hydrogen which is very explosive,so unless you WANT it to explode dont do this in an enclosed area.
 
I've know Bill Dickerson (first link) for a few years, now. I tried derusting parts like this for a while before I gave up on it. It's great for smaller parts like nuts and bolts and brackets but larger parts take a while. I stuck a 57-58 371 Pontiac Tri-Power manifold in the tank and ran it about 10 hours a day for about a week. It removed about 90% of the rust so I ran it a few more days. It never did get 100% of the rust off it. It leaves a black residue that is hard to remove and must be done by hand. I also burned up a new battery charger and a cheap older one in the process and you need to keep cleaning or changing the electrodes every few hours. Not to mention it's dangerous due to the hydrogen gas that is produced - you almost have to do it outside. Overall, I think it's a neat science fair experiment but not really cost effective and is pretty time consuming. Just my 2 cents. :wink:

That molasses deal looks kinda neat, though - I have a 340 crank that got a little rusty after being machined - I think I might try that.
 
csx452 said:
This is a great process thyat works very well, but I remember something I read years ago about a system that used some kind of current to prevent rusting of your entire car. Does anyone know anything about it?
Frank H.
Click to expand...

Scam-scam-scam.

http://www.ecclesautoservice.ca/do-electronic-rust-protectors-work_.php

(and many other such studies).

In a nutshell: Cathodic anticorrosion protection is real, but it does not work to prevent a car from rusting. The process is valid, but the application isn't.
 
Hmm,Im sure it's still better than $10/litre evaporust,lol!! I'm going to try this electrolosis and get back to y'all. I'll do a comparison to evaporust.

As for cleaning electrodes,perhaps you didnt have enough or could have used a bigger container with more solution.

Cleaning parts after evaporust is neccessary as well. But usually just a rinse is all thats needed.

I really love blasting,but you need a compressor,blasting cabinet etc etc.. Pricey to get into but awesome once it's all set up.
 
I've done this for a couple years now. I use a bucket and some threaded rod (I have used rebar as well) and an old 6amp battery charger. I do heads, intakes, valve covers, brake backing plates and all kinds of smaller parts which are all rusted up. Yes it can be slow, messy, long hard work but the results can be very good and even loosens any paint still on the items and it just peels right off most of the time.

Yes cleaning the 'cage'(anode) up is a pain in the butt and they will need to be replaced often as they get eaten away by the process.

There are a couple very important things to observe;

- negative to the good piece and positive to the 'cage'(anode)
- ventalation as hydrogen and oxygen are flamable and even explosive in the right mixture
- heat and short circuits can cause fires
- dont use stainless steel for your 'cage'(anode) as the off gasses can be lethal!

A couple other pointers...

- have a whole suite of wire brushes and sizes and shapes to get into odd shapped area's.
- if you need to remove rust from the inside of a tube like structure, use a coat hanger inside a piece of rubber tubing with little holes cut into the tubing. this will alow the current through but help keep you from short circuiting (coat hanger must still be the positive, remember the work is always negative)
- I personally like using hot water to keep the parts rinced as I'm wirebrushing so you know your progress as well as seeing where you need to work. This also helps the water evaporate quicker off your work and minimize flash rust. I towel down the part and blow it off with the compressor. If the part/work is heading to a shop or I'm going to store the pieces for later work I simply spray it down with WD40.

Hope this helps

PS never tried or even heard of the molassas way of doing this... must try it though!
 
Sorry forgot... the solution is washing soda and water. I tried finding actual washing soda but couldnt, so... Buy baking soda and bake 2 cups or so (for about 6gal, exact measurment is not important) of it in the oven at 400 for a couple hours mixing it often.

OH! Dont use this meathod on aluminum!
 
OH! Dont use this meathod on aluminum![/QUOTE]

Or Bronze or Brass...the fumes are explosive/toxic.

A good rule of thumb, use it only on something magnetic, if the magnet doesn't stick to it, do not use this process.

Note: Stainless steel trim is magnetic, but still not OK to use this process.

It's a really good process, but you need to be cautious, and read ALL the instructions.
 
I saw this in a thread here about a year ago. Worked absolutely great in conjunction with a bead blasting cabinet I made many years ago. Glass beads remove the crud left after electrolysis leaving the parts looking brand new.

A great way to protect the derusted parts is a process called parkerizing- just google it. Essentially, the parts are boiled in a stainless steel kettle with chemicals available at your local chemical supply house.
 
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