Rear End Swap 7-1/4" to 8-1/4"
Her she is sitting on the ground, a tad higher than I hoped for, I will probably flip the front spring hangers upside down to lower it some. Since my 7-1/4 was about 1.5" wider than the 8-1/4" and it also had an extra 1" of width per side from the wheel adapters my wheels now sit about 1-3/4" closer inboard than they did before.
Car sits level from side to side though, measures at 24-1/2" to the top of each bumper jack slot. I new those slots were good for something. Man this thing is stiff, hopping up and down on the rear bumper created maybe an inch of travel. I hope this thing isn't going to be a kidney buster.
Only thing left to do is modify the driveshaft. It measures center to center at 51-7/8". Since the 8-1/4's axle center line to yoke is 1.6" deeper, subtracting that amount means the new center to center length would need to be 50.28", or just 50-1/4". I will remove the yolk and push it into the trans and take those measurements too as a sanity check. Will post the results later.
Her she is sitting on the ground, a tad higher than I hoped for, I will probably flip the front spring hangers upside down to lower it some. Since my 7-1/4 was about 1.5" wider than the 8-1/4" and it also had an extra 1" of width per side from the wheel adapters my wheels now sit about 1-3/4" closer inboard than they did before.
Car sits level from side to side though, measures at 24-1/2" to the top of each bumper jack slot. I new those slots were good for something. Man this thing is stiff, hopping up and down on the rear bumper created maybe an inch of travel. I hope this thing isn't going to be a kidney buster.
Only thing left to do is modify the driveshaft. It measures center to center at 51-7/8". Since the 8-1/4's axle center line to yoke is 1.6" deeper, subtracting that amount means the new center to center length would need to be 50.28", or just 50-1/4". I will remove the yolk and push it into the trans and take those measurements too as a sanity check. Will post the results later.
