Timing advice

Timing doesnt affect detonation. Poor chamber design, poor fuel, or excessive cylinder pressure does..Least that's what all the books say. If you have a stock distributor, you wont be able to get the total to 35 unless you take out all the initial. The centrifical in most setups from the factory has too much in it. As far as stock balancers, they are usually between 2-5* off if checked with a piston stop. (which is the easiest, cheapest, and fastest way to check) You can check yours, remark the balancer, and the add a timing tape, and you're miles ahead of most guys. The outer ring can move if it's on its way out, but wont if it's at all intact. They are usually put together incorrectly, that's why they are off.
A new timing curve is easy. Tape $3, spring pkg $5, muffler shop to weld up slot in advance plate $20. The rest is your labor. Same as FBO, similar to MPs adjustable distributor. You'll need a piston stop (old spark plug, tap set, and a bolt), a rat tail file (to re-shape slot after welding), some needle nose pliers (for spring change and clip removal) to access the advance plate, the allen wrench for the vaccum pod (17/3 or close?), a rag, and some brake clean, plus your normal timing light.