yukon axle question
- Thread starter chrisf
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7demon2
Registered User #1824
i am useing these axels. i think it has to do with the design of the axels. the ends are made thicker and only tapered greens will fit. don't quote me on this though....
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
I don't know why exactly but I had to cut 3/8" off the end of each axle to get to them to fit properly without removing the thrust block in the carrier.
C130 Chief
Mechanical Genius
So if you retained the thrust block, did you also retain the threaded adjusters, or is it floating within clear space inside the diff?
That is, what bearings are you running?
That is, what bearings are you running?
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
I'm running Green bearings.
Now exactly how long do you suppose by having my axles "floating within clear space" would last?
mopar340dave
Well-Known Member
Mullinax, this could be the answer to your question as to why you had to trim your axles:
A Chrysler 8-3/4" Rear Axle Guide, Part II
Author: Doug Ahern
Section 1: Thrust Block Variations
There was a difference in thrust blocks prior to 1964 that make center section interchange, as well as axle interchange problematic. The thrust block, or "axle shaft thrust spacer", it thr block that both left and right axles butt up against inside the center of the differential. Prior to 1964, all open differentials used a thrust block was approximately 1/8" to 1/4" thicker than units made after 1964. The Sure Grip thrust block prior to 1964, however, was indentical to all 1964 and later Sure Grips and open differentials. In 1964, the thrust block width was changed to match the Sure Grip thrust block width.
http://www.autohobbydigest.com/8_75.html
P.S. There is no adjustment needed when running the green bearings. They press on and stay put. When they wear out, ya just press them off and press the new ones on.
A Chrysler 8-3/4" Rear Axle Guide, Part II
Author: Doug Ahern
Section 1: Thrust Block Variations
There was a difference in thrust blocks prior to 1964 that make center section interchange, as well as axle interchange problematic. The thrust block, or "axle shaft thrust spacer", it thr block that both left and right axles butt up against inside the center of the differential. Prior to 1964, all open differentials used a thrust block was approximately 1/8" to 1/4" thicker than units made after 1964. The Sure Grip thrust block prior to 1964, however, was indentical to all 1964 and later Sure Grips and open differentials. In 1964, the thrust block width was changed to match the Sure Grip thrust block width.
http://www.autohobbydigest.com/8_75.html
P.S. There is no adjustment needed when running the green bearings. They press on and stay put. When they wear out, ya just press them off and press the new ones on.
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
call http://www.doctordiff.com/ if you want axles that will work with the stock adjustable bearings. If you do run green bearings, get the ones with the snap-rings from moser, not the RP-400's that mopar sells.
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
Yep
From my understanding Yukon has addressed the problem NOW! I guess they are making all the same length now in which they are all shorter version. In my situation I took the dang center section out thinking I just remove the thrush block. When I found out the think had to be totally took apart I decided then to cut the axles.
From my understanding Yukon has addressed the problem NOW! I guess they are making all the same length now in which they are all shorter version. In my situation I took the dang center section out thinking I just remove the thrush block. When I found out the think had to be totally took apart I decided then to cut the axles.
69superbee
Pete E
Ok I just got a set of Yukon axles and I have the same 3/8 problem seems that I will have to cut my axles too.
Any Idea's on what to use? I was going to tape up the part that I didnt want to grind on and go to town with my angle grinder until I got the clearance I needed.
It is kind of a bummer since I ordered them for a clutch type diff. I thought it would be a drop in like my mosers were.
Pete
Any Idea's on what to use? I was going to tape up the part that I didnt want to grind on and go to town with my angle grinder until I got the clearance I needed.
It is kind of a bummer since I ordered them for a clutch type diff. I thought it would be a drop in like my mosers were.
Pete
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
I used a hand held band saw and applied oil as it was cutting (my friend did that). Cut slow and once cut hand file the rough edges with a tapper toward the center of axle. If you know a machine shop near by they can cut them for you held in place with there vice on the band saw and use there liquid to keep it cool. But that's how I cut mine keeping the heat down. Good luck.
edbux
Well-Known Member
Ideally, you would have a machine shop clamp the axle into a lathe and have coolant flushing the cutting surface. They could also put the chamfer on the edge of the axle. You never want to heat up the spline area, it'll will become weaker than the rest of the axle.
It was my understanding that if you used green bearings that the thrust blocks either had to be removed or were not needed. I took the blocks out of my 742 case with a clutch sure grip. With them in, they were stock axles, the wouldn't seat properly
It was my understanding that if you used green bearings that the thrust blocks either had to be removed or were not needed. I took the blocks out of my 742 case with a clutch sure grip. With them in, they were stock axles, the wouldn't seat properly
69superbee
Pete E
I fixed this little problem.... drove up to Mancini's and exchanged them
They were pretty cool about it . BTW got the 4.10 in there and Dang ! it is a nasty lil thing. going from a 2.76 peg leg.
cant wait to get the slicks on it .
Leaves like a lil rocket!
They were pretty cool about it . BTW got the 4.10 in there and Dang ! it is a nasty lil thing. going from a 2.76 peg leg.
cant wait to get the slicks on it .
Leaves like a lil rocket!
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