360 street car Help

ok, if you are using those parts... I'm not 100% positive on the intake closing point of that cam. So I guessed a little, but I'd go something like this: KB107 flat top hypereutectics. If the budget isnt flexible, keep the stock rods and resize with ARP bolts, internally balance it. If you can afford them, the K1 I beams are lighter than the factory rod and much stronger. It means the internal balance will be cheaper (no Mallory metaly needed). Have the block align honed, square decked to get the pistons to zero deck. On the heads, they need to have the chambers cut down to 68cc. That should give you 10.1:1 when using the Felpro performance .039 head gasket. You will also need to have the intake side of the heads milled too so the intake fits right. If you aim for 9.5:1 while using that cam, it will be sluggish, and have a poor idle quality. If you simply buy pistons and install them without verifying the chamber size, you will more than likely not reach even 9.5:1, even using the old battleship forged TRWs. That's how I'd do it.


The above parts, in a nutshell;

KB-107's and a .039 Fel-Pro gasket and open chambered heads will yeild at 9.8-1 IF the pistons come to zero deck.

I have had two engines with zero deck pistons and no block work needed except the overbore. Your block may vary.

Anyway, the 9.8-1 can be drop slightly if need be, but I vote against it. This will work very well with the MoPar cam and the rest of your set up.