score! but i need help

I would suggest finding bettter articles..lol. (jk..at least you're reading) There is soem truth to that. but..there's always a few "buts". First, the chamber size for a 318 2bbl is slightly smaller. In terms of compression, going to the larger 360 heads, drops your static compression down from it's current lower-than-what-the-piston-specs-are ratio. This doesnt seem like much, but any compression given away is a big deal. The intake ports are larger than the 318 2bbl. That's a good thing..318s dont seem to mind that, except it moves the "peaks" higher in the power band, for any given engine. The peaks are not just how much the engine makes, but more important, what kind of power and when. Torque is what will get you the ETs you want. Horsepower will give you mph, but not necessarily a lower ET. The time (rpm) that peak torque is made is crutial for proper gearing and convertor choice. So, by simply bolting on these heads, you have lost .5 point or so of static compression, and moved the peak numbers higher in their respective bands..That's with no other changes. Both are bad news for a street car. There are ways to deal with these little things..You can either mill the heads (make the chambers smaller) or use a thinner head gasket. But, in oreder to get that much compression back in a small bore engine, you must mill a ton, AND use the thin gasket. That's cool, now you're back to 8-8.5:1. But, the intake bolts wont go in...because when you mill the head or block, you have to mill the intake surfaces of the heads too, or the intake itself. You can't take off more than about .030" from the intake flange, because it's also the valve cover sealing surface, and you need a little iron left there. So, you now mill the intake itself. Now they all fit together properly (and no, ovalling the holes does NOT qualify as a proper fit...) So, you have $200 in milling, and another $100 in gaskets, goop, and shims..Oh, forgot that..When you mill the heads a lot, the pushrods "effective length" changes. They act longer when it's all put together. So, you need some shims on the rocker shafts to get the lifters to be preloaded right..Or, the new cam gets destroyed quick. You did say you're getting a new cam, yes? The 4bbl heads need a good cam to work, and you can add cylinder pressure by adding an up-to-date grind. so add the cam and timing set. So, you're up to $$600 or so.. and it's all back together. I'll put $$ that if you just swapped in the cam, and used a 4bbl intake, carb, and headers, you couldnt tell the difference. And, the engine's already done. Just add cam, and the matched valve springs, and you can do it in your driveway, in a weekend. You'll need a convertor with the cam, and the rear has to be changed. I would do this. Ask you parents for a 3.91 8 3/4 rear assembly. Used they are close to a good running core engine, and you can bolt it in and get immediate results. grab an MP convertor from Mancini for $200, and stick that in there too. You'll be into the 13s on radials. The ignition you already have is fine, just needs some cure attention. If you take this seriously, post about the right curve..Which, BTW, you can do on the 318 2bbl and get some good power from. Ignition is more important than tires.