r134a or freon

Thanks for the reply. Here's where I'm at (sorry to steal the thread but I think this will help out all). I sent my hoses to Classic Auto Air in Tampa, Fl to have them restored, and they are putting the barrier hoses on there ($126.00 ea.), he told me other than the normal replacement parts that should be replaced Expansion Valve, Receiver/Dryer, Condenser (mine was shot) and Compressor (also shot), he said that I have to remove the orifice tube, EPR valve, and install a thermostat ($45.00, from them) to keep the evaporator from freezing, which will cycle the clutch, and that is all I should need. He also said to run 80% of the recommended full R12 charge if I'm going with 134A, full 134A charge will be too much. I also told him that my '68 Cuda did not come with a low pressure cut-off switch ($5.00 e-bag), and that I decided to mount one on the receiver/dryer to protect the Compressor in the event of a leak, he said that was a good idea. They just got my hoses and said it will take 3 - 4 weeks, he can't believe how busy they are with hose restoration at this time of the year, and in this economy, but it is what it is. Anyway, I'll post my progress and hopefully my victory!!!

What year is your vehicle? My 73 Duster has a factor installed thermostat, it is mounted on the passenger side of the evaparator case. Mine is adjustable too, which was required after I got a replacement copper evap form that same company in Tampa. The new one worked too efficiently for the old setting. I am still running 12 in mine but I have heard the expansion valve style like my 73 has is pretty forgiving with different refrigerants but you may have to vary the charge from factory specs as they suggested.

Let me know how your hoses turn out, I have a v/8 one that needs to get rebuilt before putting on my car.

Good luck with it.