Not Getting 12 Volts at Coil

I have talked to Randy on the phone many times regarding his problem with not being able to start this ol' girl. I can't tell you guys how determined he is to defeat this on his own. He is VERY meticulous about everything he does, and he goes to the nth degree in trying to explain/understand everything he does. Randy is the type of guy you want to pull for and do whatever you can to help him - he does his homework before asking questions as a last resort. Let's all try to get his slant going.

I walked Randy through the process of getting down to his ignition switch, but as he said, he was defeated by the pin that holds the locking hub. He wanted to confirm the switch is still good. Short of a complete steering column tear-down, I suggested that he simply by-pass the switch and "hot wire" the car under the hood to see if it will start with a remote starter switch. At least that would eliminate the ignition switch from the formula.

Question already asked...
How do you by-pass the ignition? I have a remote switch (new in package) that I never used. It is simply a push button with two terminals on the back. Do you run a hot wire off the "battery" post of the starter relay to one of the button's terminals and a second wire from the other terminal over to the post on the relay where the "starter" wire is connected? In effect, the switch performs the ol' "cross the screwdriver over the two posts" trick.

Obviously, that would completely by-pass the column ignition switch. But, wouldn't you also have to energize the ignition system with a hot lead to the ballast resistor? Can someone please explain? I am about out of ideas, myself.

Jerry