What will my 340 run? and what intake and carb?
Hey steve,
i really really appreciate your insight here...As far as clutch goes, its going to be a mopar pressure plate with the 10.5" 10 spline ford clutch disk..
What is the clutch that you recommend?
Well, these guys do a Mcleod "custom" pressure plate and clutch disk for Mustangs that is simply awesome. They do sell the disk separate.
www.promotionpowertrain.com
Basically you want the "stage 1" Mcleod disk that goes with their red pressure plate (in a Mustang). Sadly I'm no help on the Mopar pressure plate. Maybe ask them what series the Mcleod pressure plate they use is, and get the Mopar version. That would be my best guess. The kit they sell for the Mustangs is awesome. Lower than stock pedal effort, and it held a 550 rwhp supercharged 5.0 for two years of constant passes. Replaced the disk and its still in there. Spec also makes good clutches, but historically I found them to be harder hitting than this Mcleod deal. Its been years though, and I've heard Spec has changed.
whats the difference of speed shifting and granny shifting from powershifting? i hear powershifting is the worst thing you can do for a t5- your probably the second guy who told me its okay lol...
Power shifting is where you don't lift your foot off the gas when you shift. You DO use the clutch (if you don't, you'll really tear stuff up). It takes practice, but doing it right is worth about .2 in the quarter. It also helps keep the car from unloading the tires between 1st and second. Again, this works in a cable clutch mustang. You'd probably have to have a Z-bar setup
dialed to make it work well.
Speed shifting is about what you'd expect. Letting off the gas and shitfting as fast as you can. Granny shifting is the slowest possible, most careful way to do it.
what worries me is the size tire im going to have (28x12) and the power and weight of my car...I thought a stock fox body is around 2800? my scamp will be atleast 3300 with me in it, as i havent removed anything from it to lighten it (ive actually added with the stereo system and such)...have you had any luck with g-force or astro t5 stuff before?
That is a LOT of tire. Your probably at as much risk from bogging the car as anything else.
I've built a bunch of Mustangs and I can assure you (other than
maybe a no option Fairmont post car) NO fox chassis comes close to weighing that little stock. A Fox GT in stock form typically goes 3400+, and the LX notchback is 100 to 150 pounds lighter. You don't get them down to 2800 pounds without some serious efforts (light racing wheels, tube front suspension, aluminum heads, race seats, pull the AC, power steering, aluminum heads, driveshaft, gut the sound deadening, etc).
Weight does play a role, but it's not like your car is super duper heavy by comparison.
As for luck with the G-force stuff, in a word, YES. Those transmissions are awesome. The 3.35 gear first was crap (they don't offer it anymore) , but the 2.92 had no issues. I have several friends running them on my recommendation. An 11.70 car with 200 passes (over 3 years) and no trans work needed, the previously mentioned supercharged car, etc. these are fuly synchronized street transmissions.
I used to run a heads-up race car in NMRA Pure Street. 2003 I went through 3 TKOs. 2004 I ran the G-force T-5 all year. Had to raise the launch RPM from 400 RPM because of the first gear issue, but other than that no troubles at all. This was a very high RPM car at 3200 pound race weight (shift point at 8000 very often). T-5 Also shifted a helluva lot better than the TKO. Quit racing the circuit the next year, but the trans continued to soldier on for another couple of years in limited use before I sold it.
These days they are about $2200 (synchro) from vendors like Pro Motion.
Steve
