advice: 500hp SB build

Most forged pistons, especially the cheaper ones, can run safely at a larger piston to wall clearance. The only down side is the rings are not as stable becasue the piston can rock if the bore is too loose. If the block is done, then I would not stroke it. And, I would not run hypereutectics because the bores will be loose. Something like the KB-745. It's a 9cc dish. You may have to have your block decked to get thigns the way I'd run them. I'd bring them above deck by .005". So your shop has to be able to square deck, not just mill the desk surfaces. But square deck them. Get a set of RPMs and have them lightly ported (stage one for the typical pro shops) and milled to 62ccs and the valve job corrected. Swap the springs to match the cam, a cheap way out may be inserting an inner spring to the existing Edelbrock units to get the pressure the cam needs. Just dont install the inners until after the cam's broken in. Use the Fel Pro Performance gasket. The engine needs to be internally balanced, and it will require Mallory metal. Your rods can be used as is, but I am hoping they got good (ARP) bolts when they were redone. For the cam, any flat tappet in the 240°@.050 intake, and 245°@.050 exh, with lift over .560 would be good. Run an Air Gap, or RPM on it, with a simple 750fcm 4150 series, or the 670 Street Avenger. 1 5/8 cheapie headers will work fine. I've been looking into the Pro Billet ready to run distributors, or a std Pro billet. It ends up with about 10.6:1 static with a .030 quench and should make at least 450hp on pump fuel. That is enough for 11s if it sticks and you can drive.

I think it could be done for about $6K depending.