72 demon 340... again

Chrisf this is a running driving car. not a car that has to be put together. no matter how you compare the cars it's not close. i've ben driving this car for a year now. daily! furz4 i know it hurts and i'm currently in the works of tracking the car back through the years. i don't know how to tell you people that it is original without being asked for a fender tag or a build sheet. there is a thread that another member told me to look into. it's about washers being welded to the front of the k-members of 340 cars at the factory for id. so i checked into it and sure enough my car has the washer. so i know at least that much is original not to mention the fact that the block is date stamped 71 (early production cars). if you want to buy the car then keep asking questions if not then ridecule someone else. this is getting aggravating.

Are you asking $9k because (1) you think that what it should sell for or (2) that's what you need to get another car as a daily driver?

If it's the first reason, then it *should* sell quite quickly as buyers would be lining up to pay that amount (or close to it).
If it's the second reason, then asking a buyer to fund (over pay so you can afford your next car) your next car isn't going sell the car.


The car that chrisf purchased has everything but needs minor metal/body work followed by paint. Your car needs significantly more metal work and then paint. Let's take a conservative view and say that each car will get equal quality paint jobs ($3k). Metal/body work on your car will probably be at least double (choose any figure but let's use $7k) compared the other car ($3.5k).

So someone would buy your car for $9k and spend another $10k on body and paint (total $19k) or pay $2k and then $6k for body and paint (total $8.5k)?

I think the majority of people knowledgeable about cars would start with as rust free a car as possible. Paying more for a car with rust to restore compared to paying less for one with little rust to restore doesn't make sense.