Heater core/blend door question
Superdart
I have a 67 Notchback w/o the valve, no A/C, and a 69 Fastback With the valve, and fac A/C.
It shoudn't make any differance if you hitch it up w/o the valve, but if your heater door is not closed you are right, you will get constant heat out the door. won't hurt anthing but will keep you warm lol.
You can probably get a valve at a J Y or an a parts store.
The doors are not hard to adjust, just hard to get at the back of the control. sounds like the cable housing has slipped in the braket that holds it. Best way to get at the cables is to remove the radio and stuff in that area. Also leave the controls hitched up and pull out to work on them. the housings are held by a little clamp and a phillips screw. loosen the screw and move the cable one way or the other. You want about 1/4 in hanging out as a rule.
Stubby and offset scerew drivers are the tools her, along with sraight and bent needle nose plyers.
Hope this helps.
Dave C.
Superdart
I have a 67 Notchback w/o the valve, no A/C, and a 69 Fastback With the valve, and fac A/C.
It shoudn't make any differance if you hitch it up w/o the valve, but if your heater door is not closed you are right, you will get constant heat out the door. won't hurt anthing but will keep you warm lol.
You can probably get a valve at a J Y or an a parts store.
The doors are not hard to adjust, just hard to get at the back of the control. sounds like the cable housing has slipped in the braket that holds it. Best way to get at the cables is to remove the radio and stuff in that area. Also leave the controls hitched up and pull out to work on them. the housings are held by a little clamp and a phillips screw. loosen the screw and move the cable one way or the other. You want about 1/4 in hanging out as a rule.
Stubby and offset scerew drivers are the tools her, along with sraight and bent needle nose plyers.
Hope this helps.
Dave C.
