dang - welded in 3/16 spacer ring on wheels and still the brakes pulsate

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jasonmrenda

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i measured the spacers on my rear rims and they averaged 3/16 with some hi and low spots. so i went to lowes and got some 3/16 stock, cut some spacers and welded them in to try to get the aftermarket rims to sit better on the 67 dart front hubs. thought i'd be in good shape so i swapped the wheels and went for a ride - prob still there. so now between the pulling to the left when braking and the pulsating brakes, i am getting frustrated. i can put the stock rims back on the front to get rid of the wheel hop. do you think i should add another 1/16 of metal to the spacer in order to push the wheel out even further? i may just look for some stock ralleye wheels.
 
Front or back... if its the front you arent running disk brakes are you?
 
If they were disc brakes I'd say they were warped and need to be resurfaced. For drums you may have a drum that's corroded in one spot, damaged, or otherwise untrue. If the car pulls to one side with drums you probably have one that's out of adjustment, sticky wheel cylinder, etc.

Have you done any work on the brakes? Are they new or ancient?
 
THAnks guys - this is the front wheels. if i put the stock rims on there, there is no brake pulsation. i just rechecked the whole spacer setup and i actually have a bit MORE clearance with my welded back plates. here is a pic of the rear wheels with some plates welded on that i used for reference. i am not uber sure about how drum brakes work but there is not wheel weight or anything on the OUTSIDE of the hub that seems to be hitting the rim. ugh this is a PITA!!
 
jasonmrenda said:
i measured the spacers on my rear rims and they averaged 3/16 with some hi and low spots. so i went to lowes and got some 3/16 stock, cut some spacers and welded them in to try to get the aftermarket rims to sit better on the 67 dart front hubs. thought i'd be in good shape so i swapped the wheels and went for a ride - prob still there. so now between the pulling to the left when braking and the pulsating brakes, i am getting frustrated. i can put the stock rims back on the front to get rid of the wheel hop. do you think i should add another 1/16 of metal to the spacer in order to push the wheel out even further? i may just look for some stock ralleye wheels.
Click to expand...


Did you check runout after you put the spacers in. You may have a wobbly wheel or 2.....
 
i can only go by what the guy told me when i bought it a few weeeks ago and he said everything was gone through including wheel cylinders, etc etc. the odd part is that they dont pulsate with the stock rims on the front?

wheel1.jpg


wheel2.jpg
 
Dam........What is so special about these rims that you would go through this for ?:sad1:
 
lol - oly because i hate having 2 diff types of wheels on the car and i only have these 4 wheels. the guy i bought it from told me these would work on the front with that adapter ring so thats why i tried it. 1 hour and 15 bucks in metal isnt a big deal. i just dont know why they arent working?
 
i have 3 stock rims and 4 of these aftermarkets but the only combo that works without any pulsating is the 2 aftermarkets on the back (with the spacers welded in) and the 2 stockers in front. for the life of me i cannot figure why this is such a PITA!
 
After looking at the pic of the wheels..........I'd bet they are not true or balanced, probably both.

I'm not sure why you would weld in wheel spacers like that. Wheel spacers need to be precise and hub centric. Time for new wheels
 
Take a ruler and lay it across the face of your drum where the wheel bolts up. You will find that there is a riased rim on the outside diameter of the drum. Now look at how falt the inside surface of your weels are. When the wheel is pulled up against the flat surface of the drum, right around the wheel studs, it pulls the wheel against the raised lip on the drum. (or a balance weight on the drum) Since the lip is just a cast surface and not smoothed it pushes the drum out of round. You need a way to get the wheel pulled tight to the flat surface in the center of the drum, which is against the hub, without contacting the outer edge.
 
vote #2 for distorting the drums as the wheels are tightened. If things aren't completely flat and identical height from lug to lug you'll twist the drum into an egg.
 
Just a thought.... You may have a bad tire or 2 on the wheels you are trying to fit on the front. Sure they don't have lumps, bumps or belt separation?

I still think you should get wheels that fit and quit beating your head against a wall over this.
 
rjsjea said:
After looking at the pic of the wheels..........I'd bet they are not true or balanced, probably both.

I'm not sure why you would weld in wheel spacers like that. Wheel spacers need to be precise and hub centric. Time for new wheels
Click to expand...

agreed just spend the money and get some new wheels those are junk now
 
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