360=500hp

BJR Racing said
Moper,
Sounds like your following the BowTie handbook closely, as all of the posts that you post follow there guidelines more so than mopar. Long strokes, short rods, lots of compression, big port heads, humm? Maybe you should get a Mopar racing manual and read it, lots of interesting stuff in there, it might change your mind on how to build engines. You may also learn something in the process.
No I'm not touchy on strokers, I just look at it like nitrous, its for people that don't know how to make HP.

BJR Racing

Only one chevy book I've read or paged thru. Leo Satucci's inline 6 book. Leo's a friend of mine, and I've pitted on his car, so that was more of a "cool idea" thing. He also runs 10.0s with a 292 Stovebolt 6 with sectionned/welded SBC Dart heads (try sticking them on a stovebolt block..), many block mods, and a single turbo. You and I obviously have some differences. I've only built about 5 strokers of various sizes in the past few years, the majority of my work is street/strip factory displacement rebuilt engines. Reality is, bigger cubes/longer strokes run much better for many applications than an old school "11.5:1 .509" type build, and require only marginally more work to tap into that power. Whether or not you agree with the practice. Add to that the quality of parts to support them has come way up and the price has come down in the last few years. Strange and sad how the quality of your much touted MP stuff has gone the other direction in the same amount of time. I find most of your info and posting very good, too bad you need to mock mine. All my books are dogeared from going back into them time after time. And yes, I read everything I can on any makes. But, I consider it a "price of doing business" to keep up with technology. There are an awful lot of larger shops that seem to agree with what you refer to as "my" way of thinking. I'm always one to question everything, and I find just as much guidance and help from backyarders and local racers as I do thru reading. Physics works no matter what emblem is on the block, or who made the valve or port. I'd like to think I just offer opinions here anyway. It's the buyer's/poster's decision. I'm working for him. It's part of my job to show all possible options, not to funnel them thru an MP catalog and 40 year old castings. Most prefer to stay with factory displacements, and I have no problem making the power they ask for with them. But some like the other options. I can see how a racer's shop like yours needs to fit into a set of rules that tells you what can and cant be run. I respect that. Dont bash me because my engines dont need to stay within those lines.