In car cam swap

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rmchrgr

rmchrgr

Skate And Destroy
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I know there is a post about this somewhere but was unable to find it. My manifold swap post got me thinking (at the suggestion of a few others too) that just putting a 4bbl manifold and carb on a car with a stock 318 2bbl .380 lift cam is not going to do much, if anything for performance and that a cam install would need to be done in order to reap the rewards of more air/fuel.

So - anyone done this? Easy? Pain in the ***? Seems like a lot of stuff has to come off/out for this to happen. I may need to replace my water pump at some point soon since it looks like it's weeping a little, so I might as well kill two birds with one stone.

My thought though is that it's a huge job that's better suited to pulling the engine which I didn't want to do. Then there's the extra cost of all this beyond the manifold - cam and lifters, gaskets etc. which I was also trying to avoid.

Almost seems like I may be shelving this whole manifold swap idea due to runaway cost.

Thoughts? Criticism? Am I an idiot? Well, we all know that to be true but...
 
All you should need to pull is the valence bumper and grill and the radiator and mabby the radiator support bar. That would be a lot easyer then pulling the motor.
 
yep easy job, I had to do it on my duster, just pulled the intake, water pump, fan assembly, pullled out the radiator, and grill. Really didnt take that long, maybe half hour to fourty five minuets. Seemed like it took longer to drain the cooling system than to pull all the parts off.
 
Just did a cam swap on my duster a few months ago,pull the intake,everything off the front of the motor and radiator i did'nt need to remove the grille...
 
I've done it MANY times...I seem to get bored with my cam about once every 2 years!

Easy job, even if you're clueless, just post your question and we will help you out. You should be able to do it in a Saturday with time to spare, about 2 hours to pull apart and about 4 hours to reassemble…now take that number and multiply by 3 for the “hey this piece-o-crap don’t fit right” portion of your cam swap.:toothy10:
 
Do the cam, water pump and timing chain all at once since you are in there.
I did a in-car cam swap on an neighbor's FHP car when he was on vacation.
Out with the smoger cam, in with the fun cam. Really woke the 440 up and his Lt. never knew it. Later on the Lt. rode with him and commented on how lively it seemed. Neighbor replied that it was always like that and must have been built with all the production tolerences stacked on the good side.
 
I have done this twice.First clean the motor and engine bay with a can of that gunk engine cleaner or a pressure washer. Just pull the rad. It will clear enough room for you to work the cam into the block. You need to pull the intake and carb,distributor and coil, valve covers,rocker shafts with rockers,pushrods. And the whole front of the motor,so alt,power steering,fan,fan shroud,pulleys and belts,harmonic dampner,water pump, timing chain cover,fuel pump eccentric ,chain and gears.And possibly the fuel line from the pump to the carb. Dropping the front of the oil pan will make it much easier to put the timing cover back together.Bungie cords or zap straps are usefull for keeping pesky components out of the way,as is bailing wire.Try to keep the water pump bolts sorted as to where they came from,as there are different lengths.Taking a picture prior to dissasembly may help you reassemble it correctly the first time. Or step by step pictures,even better. Hey if you have a digital cam,do it and we can follow along!

It's not that bad but i agree on the sore back!

Replace the timing chain and gears with double rollers while your in there.I prefer Cloyes brand myself. Inspect the water pump and replace if necessary,same for the fuel pump cuz it's easy to get at right now.
Oh,and theres this large felt material ring in the gasket kit,goes behind the balancer. There is a recessed sort of cup on the back of the balancer. I soak it in motor oil,as I think it's meant for keeping the front seal lubed on start up.At least on my 83 318,this part was there. Oh,and inspect the crank snout for a groove where the oil seal rides. Dont worry if there is one,just get a sleeve kit. It should come with the sleeve and a oversize seal for the timing cover. Heat the sleeve up a bit and it should go on pretty easy. I use a chunk of exhaust pipe as a driver.Put some locktite on the crank snout prior to the sleeve and it will prevent the sleeve from spinning on the snout.
The last time I did this I had a broken ankle! Just needed help with the cast intake and that was it..
 
stroked 340 said:
Just did a cam swap on my duster a few months ago,pull the intake,everything off the front of the motor and radiator i did'nt need to remove the grille...
Click to expand...

i did mine ith the car too i didnt have to pull the grille either just was very carefull not to knick the journals easy job way easyer than pulling the motor an having to do all the same work plus exaust and trans motor mounts ALOT more work to pulling the engine
 
needsaresto said:
I have done this twice.First clean the motor and engine bay with a can of that gunk engine cleaner or a pressure washer. Just pull the rad. It will clear enough room for you to work the cam into the block. You need to pull the intake and carb,distributor and coil, valve covers,rocker shafts with rockers,pushrods. And the whole front of the motor,so alt,power steering,fan,fan shroud,pulleys and belts,harmonic dampner,water pump, timing chain cover,fuel pump eccentric ,chain and gears.And possibly the fuel line from the pump to the carb. Dropping the front of the oil pan will make it much easier to put the timing cover back together.Bungie cords or zap straps are usefull for keeping pesky components out of the way,as is bailing wire.Try to keep the water pump bolts sorted as to where they came from,as there are different lengths.Taking a picture prior to dissasembly may help you reassemble it correctly the first time. Or step by step pictures,even better. Hey if you have a digital cam,do it and we can follow along!

It's not that bad but i agree on the sore back!

Replace the timing chain and gears with double rollers while your in there.I prefer Cloyes brand myself. Inspect the water pump and replace if necessary,same for the fuel pump cuz it's easy to get at right now.
Oh,and theres this large felt material ring in the gasket kit,goes behind the balancer. There is a recessed sort of cup on the back of the balancer. I soak it in motor oil,as I think it's meant for keeping the front seal lubed on start up.At least on my 83 318,this part was there. Oh,and inspect the crank snout for a groove where the oil seal rides. Dont worry if there is one,just get a sleeve kit. It should come with the sleeve and a oversize seal for the timing cover. Heat the sleeve up a bit and it should go on pretty easy. I use a chunk of exhaust pipe as a driver.Put some locktite on the crank snout prior to the sleeve and it will prevent the sleeve from spinning on the snout.
The last time I did this I had a broken ankle! Just needed help with the cast intake and that was it..
Click to expand...

Wow, great write up. I can see it in my head, parts all over the bench and floor and I'm looking for a water pump bolt I kicked under the tool box....

I imagine doing things like the damper with the block in the car would be a real PITA. I suppose that's where the 'good back' thing comes in since you're bending over, reaching and trying to work something within a small area. Fun!

Actually sounds like a fun project for a weekend though, I suppose I'm going to have to do this once in my life!
 
Hey, how did we make out with the swap?
 
Sorry to say it hasn't happened yet Rumble. Kind of figuring out what I want to do and whether or not this whole cam/intake/carb swap is worth it. Weighing whether money would be better spent on other stuff instead.

Trying to delay gratification I guess, very difficult!

If/when I do it there will be pictures for sure.
 
I've done it numerous times without pulling the motor. It's really according how much room you have without the radiator in place. Mine has plenty room thing goodness.
 
Done it on my 68 dart before. It wasn't to bad of a job. A bit of a pain when degreeing the cam. Of course back about 35 yrs ago I'd lay on my back and change out clutch's and pressure plates on a regular basis. Man that 4 speed out of my 69 Dart GTS was heavy. Ah to be young again!!!!!!
 
jefflock said:
Done it on my 68 dart before. It wasn't to bad of a job. A bit of a pain when degreeing the cam. Of course back about 35 yrs ago I'd lay on my back and change out clutch's and pressure plates on a regular basis. Man that 4 speed out of my 69 Dart GTS was heavy. Ah to be young again!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Ditto ditto ditto!!!!!!!!!!
 
Another one of my dumb questions. How do you guys replace the cam bearings when doing the cam swap?
 
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