Replacing Ignition Switch in 73 Duster

I took the switch out, disconnected it, and put it back in with it and the lock cylinder in ON. Same symptoms. When I turn the key to ON the starter cranks. From looking at the ammeter I can tell that a bit more current is being drawn in START than ON but just a tiny amount. Is there a possibility that I burned out this ignition switch too when I tried to start without the fuse in there, and without that little plastic piece? I'm still assuming that is the key-in buzzer?

There are no cogs on the lock cylinder aka there is only one way they can fit together, so that's not the problem.