415HP from 318ci IS POSSABLE!!

I like to hang around and see where these threads go...lol. Personally, I know when I'm going thru the "what should I build" with a customer I take everything into account. Budget, cores, timetables, use, etc. Using any of the EM builds for a street engine recipe is a mistake. At least the ones that win anyway. They are purpose-built dyno mules. Also, forget any race fuel or alternative fuels. One could build for E-85, but it's not anything I can really give input on. I've never tried it. So when I look at the ideas, let's say we only have a 318, and it has to live as a street car that sometimes races. I can't build a true performance engine for $2500 even starting with factory used cores. Not including parts and labor. I can build a stock long block and stick a cam in it. But that won't reach the levels being asked about. Those being 425hp or 1.3hp per inch. Stock pistons dont have a valve relief I'm aware of, and zero decking(or coming close) does't allow for much of a cam. At least nothing on the order of what would be needed to make that kind of power. Because the stroke is so short you have to rev it to get that power. You'll need a cam to make power up at 6500, and there's a very good chance that this cam will need valve reliefs. I know any choices of mine would. Another thought is the heads. You can whittle away a set of factory 318 heads of any vintage. It's your time. But again, to make 425 hp at the crank, you need a port that will move about 240cfm. The J style castings will, as will some Magnums.... but it will take a bit of knowledge and skill to get a 318 sized port to flow that, and remember, using the factory piston... it has to move that much under .500 lift. Going back to budget... Give me another $1500 and we can do it or exceed that number with decent parts. My build, and strictly my opnion, would be this: Any year 318... KB167s with the deck squared and set to bring the pistons .010 out of the bore. EQ Magnums w/the LA intake pattern, no porting, but assembled with long Chevy valves for more lift capability and chamber set to 56ccs. Stock crank, indexed, stroke corrected, and turned/polished; Stock rods w/good bolts. Block align honed; bored and plate honed, the assembly internally balanced. I'd run the XE274H cam. It's simple and effective, and has about .500 lift at the valve after the 1.6 rocker conversion and pushrod angle loss. The intake use is an RPM Air Gap and I'd want to run a larger carb... the Edelbrock Thunder AVS 750 would be my choice as I think it would make better power with no issues of tuning or idle quality and have at least as good if not better throttle response than a smaller carb. This engine would be for 91 octane pump unleaded. Tight quench, small chamber, 10.75:1, and the final cost carb to pan (give or take) would be around $4800 with the new carb and intake.