t5 trans swap?

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bump on this q lol. i tried to read the thread but couldnt find it. im not the best reader but what year is best to find a t5 outta musturd? and with mechanical(like cable driven) speedo so i can use my stock one? there is one here for $600 and one for $1000 looks like a 93 and 91 in order. thanks

your crazy if you pay that much for a t5 in my opinion...t5's arent the strongest tranny and if you plan on making more power in the future your probably going to want to step up to a tko, making spending a fortune on a t5 kinda a waste...if i was you id search the local wrecking yards for a 5.0 mustang (86-94 will do but 90 an dlater is supposedly rated at 30lb/ft more than the earlier ones) and then jump on pulling it out yourself...most yards are way cheaper when you pull yourself and make sure ou take everything like clutch, flywheel, bell, etc....sell it off and recoup and then if you ever have to sell your t5 in non broken condition to step up to a tko you can overprice it like everyone else does with them and someone will buy it for sure (lots of fools drive mustangs)....thats what i did lol
 
nothing...i paid 125 for it at my local u pull it, brought back another manual tranny and got 25 dollars back on core charge, then sold the clutch, flywheel, bell, and fork to some goof for over a 100 dollars....in the end the tranny was mine for free lol...and if i ever sell it before it breaks to buy a tko i can easily make 500 bucks off of it in these mustang filled parts, so i would be making even more money on it lol
 
there is a stronger T5 i believe its a 1993 model was in a higher performance mustang
 
Ok, I've had some questions about what kind of shifter boot to use. This is what i came up with. I made a hump to mount my boot assy to since the floor contour was too sharp to bend the boot retainer around. I has an old school feel to it and will work for now. I will probably cover it with the same carpet that I put in the car. I want to make a custom console later complete with cup holders "have to have cup holders!" and gauges. This attaches to the floor with 2 screws on each side and is pretty secure. It may not be for everyone.Reminds me of my old 73 Z28 I had.

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Also on another quick note. I did another test drive with my car after installing a sure grip & 3.91 gears. With my 3.35 first gear, 26" tires and the 3.91 I noticed that i ran out of 1st gear pretty quick. Not too bad. I think i might need a little taller rear tire if i go with a bigger gear. The 3.91 feels pretty good. The Ford Motorsport t5 has a 2.95 first gear which might be a better choice on down the road if I switch to 4.11 gears.Anything under a 3.73 gear will not be all that great on the street and may be to tall for the highway when cruising 70 to 75 mph.
 
hey Lee, thanks for the pics about the shifter boot! looks great man! i think im going to have to figure something out similar now....do you know which boot from hurst that is? or atleast the length and width of it?...also, in regards to 1st being short, thats one of the reasons i love the t5- for racing you cant beat that! lol...im running 3.91's with a 29 inch tall tire and wish i had gone with 4.30's or 4.56 as the acceleration would have been killer and produced wicked 60 foot times at the strip...but maybe later on...i finally finished modifying my crossmember for the speedo today and it looks like i will be routing the cable in through the floor as there is no way the speedo cable will bend enough to clear the tranny mount bolt and still work properly...now i just have to find a cable and im on my way!
 
shifter boot hump isa kool idea,,loooks good,, put ur cup holder on an extension on the front you wil be good to go,,,
 
The shifter boot is one that I picked up from the local autoparts store made by spectre. They make a small size and a large size. The small wouldn't do the job. I'm sure that Hurst makes one that is similar. As far as the gearing goes i think what i have is going to be perfect for what I want to do . Mostly a cruiser and some long trips. My wife and i have been talking about a route 66 trip next summer. A cup holder addition....hhmmm.
 
Thanks for all the great info so far in this thread. I have learned a lot from everyone.

I am also in the process of swapping in a T5 into my 340 powered 65 Dart. It is a new T5z with a S-10 tailshaft. Got all the parts except the driveshaft. Trying to get some lift time this month to swap it in. The 727 died coming home from CPW's Spring Fling and I'm jonesing to get it back on the road.

It is tough to visualize the the rpm for different transmissions, rearends and tire diameters. I found this calculator very helpful for finalizing setup: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/. Just enter your trans gear ratios, Rearend ratio, Redline RPM and tire size and you get a good idea of your rpm range.

I finally ended going with a T5z that has 2.95 1st gear with a swapped in a .73 OD to go with my 3.23 rear and 26" tall tires.

In 5th RPM = 1855 @ 60 mph, 2165@70, and 2478@80 mph - should good for highway cruise. Much better than my 727 with a super-loose converter, which ran at around 3800 @ 80mph. First gear should be deep enough (2.95 x 3.23 = 9.5 effective ratio).

This is for a daily driver that will occasionally run at the track. I hope to have this on the road by Labor Day.

Here is what it looks like on the calculator. After you enter in your specific combo just drag the cursor around to different RPMs or Speeds to see the exact RPM.

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Thanks for all the great info so far in this thread. I have learned a lot from everyone.

I am also in the process of swapping in a T5 into my 340 powered 65 Dart. It is a new T5z with a S-10 tailshaft. Got all the parts except the driveshaft. Trying to get some lift time this month to swap it in. The 727 died coming home from CPW's Spring Fling and I'm jonesing to get it back on the road.

It is tough to visualize the the rpm for different transmissions, rearends and tire diameters. I found this calculator very helpful for finalizing setup: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/. Just enter your trans gear ratios, Rearend ratio, Redline RPM and tire size and you get a good idea of your rpm range.

I finally ended going with a T5z that has 2.95 1st gear with a swapped in a .73 OD to go with my 3.23 rear and 26" tall tires.

In 5th RPM = 1855 @ 60 mph, 2165@70, and 2478@80 mph - should good for highway cruise. Much better than my 727 with a super-loose converter, which ran at around 3800 @ 80mph. First gear should be deep enough (2.95 x 3.23 = 9.5 effective ratio).

This is for a daily driver that will occasionally run at the track. I hope to have this on the road by Labor Day.

Here is what it looks like on the calculator. After you enter in your specific combo just drag the cursor around to different RPMs or Speeds to see the exact RPM.

cool calculator man! good luck with getting the swap done for your planned deadline! by the way, im not so sure that S10 tailshaft is going to work in an abody....last i read was that the shifter will be too far forwards- a mustang t5 and tailshaft would be the way to go
 
Socal, should be a nice swap. Not sure about your ride, but we put a t5 in my buddy's Fairlane. he is running a 3.55 rear. anything under 2500 rpms in 5th gear and his car chuggs. not enough rpms to make it run. Have to shift it back into 4th to run comfortable until he reaches about 75mph. thats what made me jump up to a 3.91. I believe he has a .68 overdrive as we both have the same trannys and both have 26" tires. May be because of carb and not fuel injected.
 
Socal, should be a nice swap. Not sure about your ride, but we put a t5 in my buddy's Fairlane. he is running a 3.55 rear. anything under 2500 rpms in 5th gear and his car chuggs. not enough rpms to make it run. Have to shift it back into 4th to run comfortable until he reaches about 75mph. thats what made me jump up to a 3.91. I believe he has a .68 overdrive as we both have the same trannys and both have 26" tires. May be because of carb and not fuel injected.

should be able to cruise way under 2500 rpm,,,some thing in his carb or timing is out of wack,,most cars with O,D cruise under 2200 rpm on the high way,,,until i do the O,D trany thing im going to a 3.91 gear,,with my tall tires,,i have 2 giant 4 bbl carbs,,and have tested cruising around 1600 rpm the car runs smooth and pulls it self out nicely,,with no bucking,
 
should be able to cruise way under 2500 rpm,,,some thing in his carb or timing is out of wack,,most cars with O,D cruise under 2200 rpm on the high way,,,until i do the O,D trany thing im going to a 3.91 gear,,with my tall tires,,i have 2 giant 4 bbl carbs,,and have tested cruising around 1600 rpm the car runs smooth and pulls it self out nicely,,with no bucking,

737jetdr - I should be OK on my ride. The 340 is pretty mild and a a lot of low end torque. I chose the .73 OD so I could accelerate in 5th when I'm doing 75+ without having to always downshift. At least that is the plan. We'll have to see how it works out.

cool calculator man! good luck with getting the swap done for your planned deadline! by the way, im not so sure that S10 tailshaft is going to work in an abody....last i read was that the shifter will be too far forwards- a mustang t5 and tailshaft would be the way to go

Mshred - I thought it was pretty cool also. Much easier to see what is going on when you change ratios or tires.

Concerning the shift location on the s-10 tail shaft. It does place it pretty far forward - the very back of the shift box is about 20.5" back from the engine. Based upon my measurements on my 65 this will be about 1" to 1.5" in front of my trans x-member hoop. I didn't want to have a really long shift handle so I went with a Qwik Stik shifter by Red Roberts (of McLeod's fame - by the way he is back with them after B&M sold them). Here is a link to an exploded drawing of the shifter http://www.redrobertsinc.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=56&Itemid=36. It has a 1" offset to the driver's side and 3" rear setback - moving my shift handle to be right above my trans x-member hoop. I will build a console to hide the Qwik Stik dog-leg and use a B-body console shift boot.

I'm using a Hurst 4106 - which will move the shift ball to be about 26" behind the engine. I am hoping that is enough. I may need to get a shift handle goes back a little farther or hog out the holes to lay it back some.

By my calculations that puts it about same distance for the Mustang T5 shifter location. 727jetdr - your latest pix really helped me visualize where it would end up on my ride.

Funny thing, the shift knob with the 5-speed had to be custom made - Hurst doesn't make the Sidewinder with a 5-speed pattern and 3/8-16 thread to match all of the chrome shift levers - they only make it with a 12mm 1.75 pitch. Nothing is easy.

Enjoy the Pictures - Below is my set up. I had the quicktime bellhousing stripped of the gold plating (cadmium?) and powdercoated silver. I'm using a McLeod's slip on hydraulic throw-out bearing. I can't wait to get it in the car.

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Does using the S10 tailhousing mean that you won't need to modify the reinforcement above the trans crossmember?
 
Does using the S10 tailhousing mean that you won't need to modify the reinforcement above the trans crossmember?

That is the plan. If I can't get the same drive shaft angle, I will explore trimming the ridge on the top of the S-10 tail shaft or notch the x-member tunnel hoop (or both).

The engine placement/angle is the primary consideration on my 65, followed by the trans x-member strength. It is pretty tight with the TTI headers and everything on the driver's side of the engine bay - it wouldn't take much of a change in drivetrain angle to give me a bunch of new headaches. I still have to figure out the final location of the clutch master cylinder in that same area.

You know the joke..."if I only had 2 more inches..." Well, the early abodies have 2" less between the front frame rails. Committing to the TTIs have complicated my build a bit. I love them, but it sure is tight on the driver's side.
 
Socal, that adapter is crazy looking and you have the hydraulic t.o. bearing that i wanted to try.hope it works out for you. what's that old saying," more than 1 way to skin a cat." I will be doing my first real road test next week. Have to have my front frame pulled a little to square things up before I add my lower radiator support and inner fender supports. Got a mental pic of an engine compartment brace floating around in my head as well. It never ends...
 
Socal - please post up pics when you trial fit this, I'm very interested to see how it all works out - I might end up soing the same with my '63.
 
well it doesnt seem like anyone here is going to be using mechanical linkages like me for the swap, but if anyone reads this and decides they want too make sure that when you order your bellhousing it comes with the mopar fork bracket...i just found out that because mine was a clearance bell, it was still a prototype and therefore came with the ford fork bracket which is only about a little over an inch tall- the mopar one is about 1.5inches and wasnt included so i had to call quicktime and they are sending one out as i type this....just another headache to get in the way of finishing the car, but thought id give others a headsup in case they planned on going this route...make sure you measure your brackets height and see if you have the correct one
 
My Quick Time clearance bell came yesterday, now it's time to get my steel flywheel balanced for my cast crank (340) and buy a clutch. Because it is my back and forth to work car, and it's fast approaching nearly two grand for the suspension mods and V8 conversion bits, I'm leaning toward the McLeod diaphragm clutch kit that's under two bills at Summit. Anyone had any experience with it?

A buddy and I are going to pick up a Valiant 4dr roller to cut up and use as a fixture for the floor and crossmember mods (to keep the runners running while we do this). This will enable us to check clearances, modify any parts that need it, make linkage decisions, and construct patterns and jigs to make the process repeatable any time later on any car.
 
My Quick Time clearance bell came yesterday, now it's time to get my steel flywheel balanced for my cast crank (340) and buy a clutch. Because it is my back and forth to work car, and it's fast approaching nearly two grand for the suspension mods and V8 conversion bits, I'm leaning toward the McLeod diaphragm clutch kit that's under two bills at Summit. Anyone had any experience with it?

A buddy and I are going to pick up a Valiant 4dr roller to cut up and use as a fixture for the floor and crossmember mods (to keep the runners running while we do this). This will enable us to check clearances, modify any parts that need it, make linkage decisions, and construct patterns and jigs to make the process repeatable any time later on any car.

are you using mechanical linkage? if you are and need to know what works and whast doesnt pm me and ill help you out
 
are you using mechanical linkage? if you are and need to know what works and whast doesnt pm me and ill help you out

I appreciate the offer of a P M, but having followed this thread with great interest from it's beginning, I'm sure many others here will want you to share with them too.

A little background to show why we decided get a shell to jig up with;
My Feather is a factory 4 spd car and I'm very reluctant to carve up the tunnel. While I have a Mustang T5 and I'm sure I would enjoy it behind my 340, I'm leaning more toward the cast iron 833OD I picked up a couple of years back (I want to rebuild the aluminum one and keep it behind the slant). I'm using iron manifolds to begin with to facilitate using a stock type clutch linkage and Firm Feel fast ratio steering arms with power steering (car was/is 4spd, power steering, manual disc brake car). Also, after I convert to four wheel disc, I may see the need for a power booster.

My friend has both a Dart 4dr and a 68 Barracuda, both are automatics he plans on converting to T5s. With a triple Weber DCOE setup on the slant in one, and a stout LA (with a Quick Time bell) in the other it should get interesting.

We both enjoy showing the taillights on a "grandma's car" to the ricers around a corner. Listening to a great sounding motor winding up though the gears is fun too.
 
I have been looking aroung for a T5 but fell into a deal for a t45 out of a 99-00 Cobra.

Any one know of any downfall to this trans? From my small search, seems to be stronger than the t5 but similair otherwise. Lookin' for your input.

Kev
 
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