t5 trans swap?

Thanks bro! it just gets frustrating at times, especially when it seems like you have made progress and more roadblocks occur...i called up Ross the tech guy at quicktime and hes super nice about the whole thing...he said that theyve never had this happen before, and that this weekend he is going to mock up a bellhousing with my same setup and see what he can do in regards to making a reinforcement bracket...he should be giving me a call back this weekend...until i hear from him im working out the car's wiring (and there is alot) so i have enough to keep me busy until then....hopefully he or we can come up with something...I was going to post pictures yesterday as i was stoked that it was finally done, then my dad had me push the clutch pedal and we saw the problem...I have been reluctant to post all the parts needed for the t5 swap with mechanical linkage because i havent actually fully finished and i figured things might change, and its good i am still waiting, because sure enough more mods are in order lol...we shall see what happens

Quick questions;
Are you running the block plate between the bell and the block?
Are you running a Borg & Beck (3 finger), or a diaphragm pressure plate?
Are you running a magnum motor?

A couple of thoughts;
I just assumed the supplied block plate and clutch ball plate would stiffen the bell assembly enough to use the stock torque arm (Z bar). As my car is a factory 4 speed car, I don't want to abandon the factory clutch linkage for a hydraulic setup.
Perhaps a doubler flange of 3/16" or 1/4" material on the back side of the bell mounting flange, and tying into more mounting bolts beyond the starter pocket would help. Welding flat stock onto the edge of this add on plate turning it into a "T" around the starter pocket would strengthen it yet again. Extending this add on bracket or the supplied clutch ball bracket forward to engine mounting bosses (not unlike the stock slant six bellhousing brace) certainly would work if all else fails, with motor mount bosses, the oil pan rail, or even the exhaust mounting surface of the head all possible tie in points. If you're running a Magnum motor with stock A body motor mounts, tying into the additional pickup motor mount bosses would be a natural. Perhaps just tying the motor mounting flange around the starter pocket to the transmission mounting bolt flange would be enough.
All in all not a deal breaker, just more work.