Vacuum Advance sticking?

Longgone,
The way that you described would be the best way, but there isn't any set starting point other than to make the engine run. The way that I do it is to run the air bleed in until the engine drops rpms and then back it out until the engine reaches peak vacume, then go to the other side and repeat the process. You may have to do the bleeds another time just to make a real fine tune adjustment. This will put the engine running at it's leanest mixture, if you want power then do the process the same but instead of stopping at the where it reaches the highest point keep going until the vacume falls from backing the air bleed out then go back in until it reaches the highest vacume, this puts the engine running on the rich side but at peak vacume. So you have a lean and a rich peak, and the engine will respond better but so will the gas hand along with your foot.
Every engine is different unless it's a new engine as the rings and valve jobs will vary in sealing and this is what your tuning to to get the best performance out of your given engine. Then if the engine still runs lean then you'll have to do some jetting. Make sure the air bleeds in the top of the carb aren't stopped up or the readings will be wrong, trying to compensate one for the other. There are 4 in each carb under the choke flap the 2 that are on the out side is the idle circut and the 2 that are on the inside are the power circut. If these clog up or get dirty the carb will run rich and flood making you think that the floats are bad or the needle and seat is bad and it's neither. I've recieved so many carbs from people that don't know and claim that holleys are junk, then I go in and fix them and use them. Just some info that might come in handy.


BJR Racing