Scarebird disc conversion

Dakota_Don said
No redisule valve is the only problem i had when i first did the swap. I replaced my 68 MC with a re-man disc/drum mc from a 70 dart, then i tried a 73, then a 68 disc/drum mc , even thou i had a firm pedal it had excessive play.. I bled and bled, took the whole thing apart, bled some more ect...
come to find out the re-man MCs from A-1 cardone dont have a redisule valves for the rear brakes..(like my original one does) also my 72 motors repair manual clearly shows the valve in the MCs. Heres wha i did since the 68 disc/drum MC and my original manual 10" drum/drum MC from my dart had the same piston bore size, I removed the front drum redisule valve from my old MC .(dont need it since im going to front disc) I Installed and bled the old 68 MC and had a full, firm and nice pedal..I called A-1 cordone and they said they do NOT reinstall the redisule valves back into thier re-man MCs. said it caused to many problems so they just remove them. I know the res is smaller on drum/drum mc then the disc/drum Mcs, I have never had a problem pluss i do check quite often.

Does anyone make a MC with redisual valves built into the MCs???? OR can an upgrade of the rear wheel clys take care of this problem?

I did this conversion on my 65 Barracuda. My understanding is that you don't need a rear residual pressure valve if your rear wheel cylinders have the expander cups in them for this function (those cups have been common in rebuild kits since the 70s) I put a disc/drum mc on the car before I did the swap and it worked fine.

I did use a rear proportioning valve b/c a super hard panic stop caused the car to swap ends .

I don't know enough about metalurgy to know what type of steel the adapters are made out of, but I can tell you that they are STURDY. If anything, they seem to be over-engineered.