electric fan / alternator question
Anyone have a picture of this 12V bus?
Rumble: Do you know what the culprit was in your fire? What did you do afterwards to fix it?
I've been considering adding an electric fan (with appropriate relay setup of course) and eventually a fuel pump, but I'm worried that will still draw too much juice through the ammeter and rinky-dink wiring.
Steve
OH crap, I missed this, sorry Steve.
The culprit to my firewall fire was IMO a combonation of things with these issue's at hand leading to the fire.
1. Old bare wires
2. The connection at/in the bulkhead connector barley touching. The connectors would slide in and out of each other way to easy. There was play in the connectors.
3. A larger 1979 90/100 amp Alt. pumping out the juice.
The amp meter is still in place and I have no issue with it even with the 90/100 amp Alt. charging the car. I also have run at night in the rain with the stero cranking. The stero's amp is a Kenwood @ 100 X 2.
(More than enuff for the small cabin I'll tell ya!)
So it sounds like you hooked up the fan without a relay thus pulling all the fan current through the firewall and the fusable link. It's no surprise the fusable link opened up, it's only designed for a certain amount of current. Run the fan with a relay with the relay power coming from the battery or near it and not through the ammeter circuit. Be sure to use a fuse in series with the relay as well. Also, mount the relay close to the fan.
Hey Jim, sorry about the late reply. I'm back mainly because the relay I had crapped out. (As well as the fan, both Perma cool equipment)
The way the Perma cool fan temp sensor unit works is 1 wire to the battery, 1 wire to ground and then the fan wire to ground. The temp sensor switch's on the fan at a precetermined temp set by the dial on the relay that is adjustable from 160 - 210 *'s.
It is part number 18905 if you want to look it up.
So far, I replaced the fan with a Summit racing fan and aluminum shroud. When the temp sensor did work, it did not over heat.