Sorry if I wasn't clear.. A spoiler WILL help the air get out.
I'm on a faster computer now so I can see your setup...
As for the induction setup.. why not just turn it upside down? so that it's pointing down and coming out in front of the radiator? if you did the spoiler with a intake "hole" you could have high pressure, cool air also. + a front spoiler will help with drag too, actually decreasing your CD.
I think if you want to evacuate the air out of the engine compartment you'll need to move the flaps forward. away from the high pressure cowl/lower windshield air. and if the boundary layer doesn't mess it up the Bernelle(I'm pretty sure this is spelled wrong) principle should raise them up for you.[/quote]
I spent an hour writing a rebuttal to your previous post, but the wonderful world of electronics first hung it up, and then deleted it for me; I'm not going through that drill, again.
The distance from the base of the windshield to the back edge of the hood varies from 10" to 11," across the width of the hood. I am of the opinion that that distance, coupled with the cowl louvers that are a part of the heater system, will be sufficient to defeat any high pressure area that exists because of the aerodynamics of the greenhouse/windshield considerations. In other words, any high pressure that exists at speed, will be dissipated by turbulence before it gets to the area where the hood begins (as I said, 10-11" before the windshield.) The boundary layer on the hood will be above the area that will be exposed at the rear, because it will be headed upward, clinging to the hood contour, and will be above the opening, when the rear of the hood rises which could be as much as two to three inches.
That's my story, and I'm sticking to it!!!
And, yes, I definitely need to fabricate and install a chin-spoiler for this ol' tub.
That can only help, I think.
Thanks for all the thoughts and ideas, guys.... I am getting quite an education!!! :profilel:
