Converter stuck in cranksaft!

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myasylum

myasylum

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O.k. This is weird.

I just tightend the tranny to the block and the converter wouldn't move. So I unbolted the tranny, and the converter pulled out of the tranny and the converter nub was stuck in the hole of the crankshaft!
I did get the converter off, but now what? Can I sand the nub of the converter, or the inside of the crankshaft? How odd is something like this.

It is an Eagle crank, so that might have something to do with it? :angry5:

Thanks...

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myasylum said:
O.k. This is weird.

I just tightend the tranny to the block and the converter wouldn't move. So I unbolted the tranny, and the converter pulled out of the tranny and the converter nub was stuck in the hole of the crankshaft!
I did get the converter off, but now what? Can I sand the nub of the converter, or the inside of the crankshaft? How odd is something like this.

It is an Eagle crank, so that might have something to do with it? :angry5:

Thanks...
Click to expand...

Try sanding both then dry fit the converter to the crank and make sure she doesn't hang up. Could just be paint or rust that's causing the problem.

Terry
 
Well they are both brand new, so it's not rust. maybe paint? Thats not going to ruin the warranty is it?
 
I can't believe how little of clearance is in there. I'm surprised with all the heat and everything the converter don't just seize to the crankshaft. Are you suppose to use some oil on there or something??

I don't even know. They ask the year of the engine and I said 72, so I'd think they'd have it right??!?!
 
Well, I did the sandpaper thing. I can get it to turn with the hitting a screwdriver on the teeth, but there is no way I can move it up into place of the flexplate. How much sanding can I get away with? Can I use a dremel tool of some sort get get some better sanding??
 
I am done for the night. I installed the tranny 3 times tonight, with no luck.
on the nub of the converter itself it seems to have a ring around it, possibly a "cap" of some sort, that is what it is getting stuck on (I think?) is that ring, it sticks up a 1/16 of an inch higher or so. I would just sand it more, but suppose it is a cap... that could be bad.

DSC01232.JPG
 
I would get the correct parts,,,,i bought a converter from someone because they had the same problem,,,,,they ordered a converter for a 904 trans.,,,but the hub was too big for the hole in the end of his crank,,,,it was a 273 crank.
I would double check all your parts and get the correct ones where needed.
 
yea, i'm debating what to do before I go out there again. Every place I called is closed Saturdays of course!
is it possible that the engine/tranny isn't level enough so the conveter is going in cocked and that's why it gets stuck? everything seems level...?
 
Are you bolting the trans to block, then pulling the converter about 1/4" forward to the flexplate?
 
Yes, I'm trying to. I can't pull the converter forward at all because it is stuck in the crankshaft! When I take the tranny back out, the converter stays in the crank shaft. I have to twist and turn the converter to get in unstuck again.

I looked up the numbers on the converter and they say it is for a 318. I assume they did that because it has no weights on it, (since to told them it was a neutral balanced engine)
Is it at all possible that the pilot hole in the 360 crank is smaller then a 318 would be?
 
i would try the converter in anouther crank shaft to determin whitch one is out of speck. if its the crank you wouldnt want to make the torq converter to small for any outher crank.if it fits good in anouther crank then work on your crank only
 
I thought about just sanding the crank with a dremel tool, but is it going to matter if it becomes out of round? Since it is neutral balanced, is it then going to throw the balancing off??
 
myasylum said:
I thought about just sanding the crank with a dremel tool, but is it going to matter if it becomes out of round? Since it is neutral balanced, is it then going to throw the balancing off??
Click to expand...

It would have to be egg shaped to make a diff. fyi

Grind the lil ledge off and you'll be good!

But if it is a 273 crank or pre 1968 you can't grind enough off to make it right before you weaken the snout to much, it hold the bushing for the convertor shaft.
If it is pre 1968, just grind out the convertor register in the back of the crank, I've done it before, no big, just keep it round and only remove what's needed.
 
1 time I had an early 904 I was putting to a late 225, obviously the early convertor would be wobbling around some, so I cut some chain link fence post and made a bushing out of it, worked great.
 
If the converter goes in but it's snug then I don't think it's a mismatched application. Keep in mind that the converter spins with the crank so it has to be quite a close tolerance to avoid any imbalance but these are both aftermarket parts and even with CNC machines, someones got to keep an eye on tolerances and tool bits and with any production manufacturing there are some boo boos that slip through the cracks. I dont know if it's the crank or the converter but you probably only need a couple of thou(.002). I wouldn't use the dremel if I was doing it because it's too easy to put flats on it and be out of round. Just keep going with the sand paper with your hand all the way around the stub of the converter untill it slides easily all the way into the crank. Short of that you would have to wait for Monday and need some measuring tools to see which one is wrong. JMHO. Kev
 
if the converter pushes on the crank it will ruin the thrust bearing in the engine. There has been a rash of that happening recently. The coneverter should have to be moved out of the trans a little to reach the flexplate and the nose of the converter should be able to move in and out of the crank as needed.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
Nah..it should be able to spin independent of the flex plate/crank as to line up the bolt holes, I've done at least 30 of these things to know.
Click to expand...

You've had 30 converters that didn't fit into the crank? Wow, I guess I haven't had my hands on enough aftermarket stuff yet. Kev
 
yea, like I say, its so tight I can't even push up the converter to meet up with the flexplate.

I've had to put that coverter back in place three times now. I hope concerning I've never done this before i'm not wrecking anything like the pump in the tranny or the seal. I get nervous.
 
myasylum said:
yea, like I say, its so tight I can't even push up the converter to meet up with the flexplate.

I've had to put that coverter back in place three times now. I hope concerning I've never done this before i'm not wrecking anything like the pump in the tranny or the seal. I get nervous.
Click to expand...

Well you should feel 2-3 clicks when putting the convertor in the tranny, so it should be recessed from the flange of the bell.
 
Yes you have something wrong.Wrong converter or something it should not go together tight.If you put it together this away you will damage something.
Jim
 
myasylum said:
yea, like I say, its so tight I can't even push up the converter to meet up with the flexplate.

I've had to put that coverter back in place three times now. I hope concerning I've never done this before i'm not wrecking anything like the pump in the tranny or the seal. I get nervous.
Click to expand...

You won't be doing any damage to the tranny unless you try to force the converter in without the "dogs" being lined up and thats not your problem but the stub does need enough clearance to slide in and out easily so that it can be pulled to the flexplate. Like wild&crazy said, once the tranny is bolted in the converter should be able to rotate by hand. Kev
 
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