Just bought my '66 Dart and have some questions!

1. Engine heat: Spent a winter in Wisconsin once :angry7:. What I did was buy a heater that went in the bottom radiator hose. It had a pump to circulate the coolant and a heating element to keep it warm. Ran off house current via a pigtail sticking out the grille. Also installed a blanket on the battery that plugged in and kept it warm. Wired the battery blanket into the pigtail for the block heater. Got all that at NAPA and never had to walk in that freezing *** cold again. It was -56F the day I left to come home.

2. Interior heat: Small space heater plugged into an outlet or hard wired to the engine block heater pigtail. You have the right idea on this one.

3. Disc brakes: About the cheapest way to go would be a Scarebird conversion. You can find them at www.scarebird.com. The only problem I have with the kit is the use of GM parts. They don't cost an arm and a leg, you have good brakes, but you also have GM calipers. If you can live with that, that would be the way to go. Next on the cost list would be stock '73-'76 A body discs. Guess what I have on my '66 Valiant. Either way you go you will need a dual master cylinder for disc brakes and a proportioning valve. My personal favorite for a master cylinder is a 1974 Charger manual disc brake unit.

4. Power steering: You will need a '64-'72 A body power steering box. Fortunately your Pitman arm off the manual box is the same as the one for a power box. You will need some sort of coupler since the manual box uses a larger input shaft than the power box. The power box also needs a shorter steering column shaft. You can either find a power steering column from a '63-'66 A body or cut your manual steering shaft to length and use a coupler from Flaming River that fits the box and welds to the steering shaft.

5. Temperature gauge: Pull the wire off the temperature sender and ground it. Turn on the ignition and watch the gauge. If the gauge moves, you need a new sender. If the gauge doesn't move, you have a bad gauge or the wiring to the sender has problems. This could be a corroded connection at the bulkhead connector or instrument panel board, bad splice, break in the printed circuit board runner, or just an open wire.

6. Welcome to FABO and if you have any more questions fire away. Hope you have a long and enjoyable stay.