Degreeing Cam Needed???

To be honest, I have no faith in marketing. You degree a cam to eliminate errors. Errors in machining the cam, errors or wide tolerances on the timing set, the keyways, and/or the indexing of the crank keyway. In most cases, you will have to chnge the centerline to get it where the cam companies say each one should be run. Very generally, I've found Comp to be within 2* every time, no matter how big or small, or type of engine, of the spec given on the matched cam card. Crane, is generally within 2-3*. Custom cams are within 1-2*, and the favorite Mopar Performance are a roll of the dice. I've had a couple be dead on, and most are between 4-10* off from the cam cards.(disgustingly bad, IMO..hence me not running them in most cases) An example from last week: Engine is a B block 451, factory crank, Comp 270H cam, and Comp roller timing set. Card says 106* recommended installed center line. It degreed at 108*. Not bad, but not what the card says to run it at (Which I agreed with). It may have been teh timing set off a degree, the cam grind off a degree. Would the typical driver notice it? No. But to me, it's not what the cam grinder wants, and it can sacrifice measurable power and in this case, may effect idle quality and vaccum. This is for a car with power brakes, and A/C. It'ssupposed to look and sound like a stock 383, or very close. So, IMO, it makes a difference. I drilled the gear, and installed the 2* bushing. It's at 106 now. Degreeing is one of those things that makes some cars run like mad, and some never quite feel right. It MUST be done when using MP cams, and be prepared to use offset keyways/bushings on the crank and cam becuase they can be that bad. My $.02 anyway...