Rhs Indy X Head Thread

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That is certainly very reasonable. If I didn't have a local guy that does great work and owes me some work done I'd certainly send you my W5's to install 2.08 valves and freshen them up.
 
Before and after:

RHS heads 015.jpg


RHS heads 012.jpg


RHS heads 010.jpg
 
nice when i get the heads done i will like to get my intake done as well
 
Congrats on those numbers!! You have to happy with the power that bad boy makes! Those are very good numbers for those heads. The car is going to be a real animal out on the streets. Just watch out in first and second gear at low speeds, it can get out of control very quickly with an engine like that.
 
Hey MadDart,glad to hear you have everything straightened out.I think going with Brian was a good choice.I,m wondering if you could post a pic of the notching you,ve done to your K frame.I,m also in the midst of having a similar 408 built,but have the Eddy RPM heads instead(kinda fell in my hands for an unbeliveable price still ITB)I,m also shooting for the same HP#,s as you have.Couple quick questions.
Are you running a scattershield?If not,get one if you like walking.
What headers are you running?Are they 1 7/8 or 1 5/8?
What clutch are you running?I have a centerforce dual friction in my 73 DartSport 340 and love it.How about your rad?What kind,how many cores?
My 408 is going in my 66 Dart which maybe a tad lighter than say a 67-72 Dart(not sure though)
I,ve wrestled with my 4 speed a few times,fun isn,t it.
I,d also get some CalTracs for your car for better traction.It sounds like it,s gonna be quite the beast.Waiting for a video.Good Luck and play safe,double check every nut and bolt just because!:burnout::evil3:
 
Pettyblue,

yes I can post the k frame pictures

yes QuickTime bell
centerforce aluminum flywheel
same clutch as yours
safety loop
yes I have caltracs rancho 9000 7 ways in rear with 90/10's up front
4 core radiator brand new
brand new 3rd member nodular 489 case sure grip with 391 gears
will be running street et's just need to figure out the correct size

I should be ready to go!! Just need to finish it.
 
Sounds like your all ready to GIDDY-UP!!HaHa.Good Luck!Thanks for any pics you could post of notched K.
 
ou812 said:
Reading my statement, I said it will be a 6500rpm engine once in the car, not make HP to 6500rpm!

If you have an engine that makes 500HP at 5700rpm, and maintains within 10HP of that for 500rpm after peak, you need to run past peak in order to take advantage of that HP. .................................................................I had a customer dyno a 505 Mopar and made 768HP at 6400rpm and he said at the track it ran best shifting at 6200rpm....????
So I started asking him questions about what he changed and basicly he added an exhaust system with cutouts that unbolt and that's how he ran it.

Well they were 6" too short over the extensions we used on the dyno to get good HP so he dropped the system (which weigh'd roughly 60lbs.)and added the correct extensions and picked up 3mph and .2 with no other changes!!
Click to expand...

OK and thanks OU, thats handy to know.

The change in ouput due to the open pipes not being the correct length is valuable tech!
 
it's called tuned exhaust....

Just like header pri tube length can effect power.

I tell people all the time, mark the pipe with shoe polish every 6 inches back from the collectors, on the last line that burns off, thats where the pipe ends or muffler hooks up.

Tuned exhaust.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
it's called tuned exhaust....

Just like header pri tube length can effect power.

I tell people all the time, mark the pipe with shoe polish every 6 inches back from the collectors, on the last line that burns off, thats where the pipe ends or muffler hooks up.

Tuned exhaust.
Click to expand...

what if your running and x-pipe?
 
I've done a lot of research on header primary tube size and length as well as collector size and length and what I found was most header builders agree that on a real race engine the primary tube diameter and length aren't nearly as important as collector length. Most race cars are pretty much set as to how long a primary tube you can fit in it and once that is set tuning can be done with collector length. This seemed to be proven true by several magazine articles I've read, one in particular that was an old (7 or 8 years ago) Car Craft article where they tested different tube diameters and lengths and as long as the tube wasn't too small the actual length and diameter had little effect on the power output but the collector length did. This of course did not take into account the shorty style headers which aren't considered a race header anyway.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
It's probably too far out to matter.

It's more of a race thing
You'll find your mufflers end up right under you're seat, so no room for the ex pipe, unless after.he he

I wonder how many guys use an X/H pipe drag racing.
Click to expand...

I've heard that once you get into the territory of 650/700+hp x-pipes really dont do anything for you anymore and your best off with properly tuned collectors
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
it's called tuned exhaust....

Just like header pri tube length can effect power.

I tell people all the time, mark the pipe with shoe polish every 6 inches back from the collectors, on the last line that burns off, thats where the pipe ends or muffler hooks up.

Tuned exhaust.
Click to expand...
True on the primary tube length. It has been found that length is best working for the RPM range you want to run in. I have read and heard Dick Landy quip about the primary tube length being to long for what they were doing or a particular engine they had assembled. For the most part, it seemed they were to long for him.

Primary diameter is best suited for the expected power level being sought. 1/-58 - 1-3/4 are great for the street. However, even between these 2 street pipe sizes, the bigger one on a mild engine can kill torque while the smaller one on a higher HP car will choke it up top limiting it's pontentail.

The "Ye Ol'shoe polish" on the collector pipe is OK if you add 6 inchs to the burned off spot. That old method had been debunked several times, but not trashed as garbage. It was noted that was aboutthe area of absoulte min. should be and only if it was absoultely a must do. Which is not for mopst car we run.
Now Sunbeam on the otherhand....may have a under chassis issue, LOL>

1wild&crazyguy said:
It's probably too far out to matter.

It's more of a race thing
You'll find your mufflers end up right under you're seat, so no room for the ex pipe, unless after.he he

I wonder how many guys use an X/H pipe drag racing.
Click to expand...

I've noticed a good number of wheel standing door slammers running X pipes. Rare to see a "H" pipe wheel stander. IMO, if these guys are running this, they may know something, however, that may be for there car and combo only otherwise eveybody would be running one. That is my guess.

For surley, most guys putting day light under there car seem to have the K.I.S.S method of 2 huge sewer pipes dumping at the rear axle.
(Or so I have noticed.)

Guitar Jones said:
I've done a lot of research on header primary tube size and length as well as collector size and length and what I found was most header builders agree that on a real race engine the primary tube diameter and length aren't nearly as important as collector length. Most race cars are pretty much set as to how long a primary tube you can fit in it and once that is set tuning can be done with collector length. This seemed to be proven true by several magazine articles I've read, one in particular that was an old (7 or 8 years ago) Car Craft article where they tested different tube diameters and lengths and as long as the tube wasn't too small the actual length and diameter had little effect on the power output but the collector length did. This of course did not take into account the shorty style headers which aren't considered a race header anyway.
Click to expand...

Agreed, though I'm no wizard, I just pay attention to them and try and remember there spells and what they were on.

In a nut shell (And probably overly simplified) is that if you are racing, a shorter primary tube seems to be good for high RPM and the collector length is under the old addage of "More the merry." In example, if you have a 3.5 tube from the primary pipes, carry it as long as you can. IF you have to neck it down, wait 16 inch. LOL
 
It's all combo relative.

mufflers in drag racing are to meet db requirements, class requirements, and or street requirements in order to drive to the track.

Full lengths generally make the most torque/hp over shortys which will usually only make more hp over stock manifolds.

think ''scavenging'' long tube, long pulse, more pulled out.

ot dam it, the tarps being blown off the work shed brb
 
ok, now the x pipe drag car thing go's hand in hand with the rule book and weather it's a driver or not [with sum exceptions] but mainly if the book says you have to run mufflers yet allows x pipes...I'd be running an x pipe, wouldn't you?

fwiw X pipes pick up the mid range torque, equalizes pulses bank to bank I believe.


Mufflers other than quieting the motor also create back pressure, back pressure helps make some torque below the power band of the cam/combo.

Most racers that I know don't race under the power band....
so, the mufflers you see on drag cars are the kind that lower decible with the LEAST amount of back pressure possible.
 
Sounds like your on the ball. Now, about tieing knots in rope and pinning tarps down............:poke:
 
Hey guys I am about done with the install of the 410, trans etc is all in. I just need to put 1 end on a fuel line, radiator, fan and carb.

Question: My alternator has 3 prongs. I know where the Post lug goes but am confused on the GREEN AND BLACK WIRES and I dont want to cross them.

Can someone Post a Picture of their Alternator and what color wire goes where!! It has been 18 months since I tore it apart and need some help!

Thanks in advance.
 
Louis the black wire should be the big one (10 gauge) and goes to the stud/post. The 2 little wires should be green and blue and it doesn't matter if you switch them around as the field in the alt. are identical.

BTW: What year is your Dart? I thought it was a mid 60's but they only have 2 wire alternators. Maybe I'm remembering wrong on the year. In 70 they went to the dual field alt. Alot of guys switch the old old single field alternators to the newer dual field alternators because they charge better.
 
crackedback said:
COME ON!!! Where's the tire frying video... LOL
Click to expand...

Not there quite yet. I need to fill the Gas Tank tomorrow morning and the Radiator........Then it is ready to fire off!!

Having some issues with my Linkage on the 4spd. Been a while need to adjust it. Maybe I have the rods upside down.......no big I will figure it out tomorrow.

I found neutral and then put the rods on the trans. Seems to have 3rd and 4th gear but no 1st, 2nd or Reverse. They are there, just cant find them....

Anybody got a picture of the Shift Rods on the side of the trans?????
 
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