1lostsoldiers 302 head thread, take 2

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dodgetkboy78

EDELBROCK HEADS SUCK!
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If you are running 480 lift, besides changing the springs, make sure your retainer isn't going to beat on the valve seal, AND you may have to mill down where the spring rides on the head to get you installed height too......

Food for thought, check twice, do one. LOL
 
I read on another site that you can use 1.94 in & 1.6ex valves for a sb chevy because they are +.050 longer and then use the newer stock hemi 5.7 beehives. Has anyone had and experience with that setup or something similar?
How much lift can you run on stock valves and head without mill work?

Thanks

Please keep it civil enough not to lock the thread.
 
I have not, never used chevy valves or springs, I always make my mopar **** fit, call me old school.......LOL

I am sure someone has tho.
 
I have not, never used chevy valves or springs, I always make my mopar **** fit, call me old school.......LOL

I am sure someone has tho.

I guess I'm not a pureist, I'll use any good idea or part.:sign7:
 
I have not, never used chevy valves or springs, I always make my mopar **** fit, call me old school.......LOL

I am sure someone has tho.

I guess I'm not a pureist, I'll use any good idea or part.:sign7:


I'm pretty sure aftermarket valves are made to certain specs, and not labeled "only for GM"

For all the money spent on a cast iron head, you'd think you'd look into something lighter, and easier to repair :D
 
These are the heads that came with the motor so I really dont have any money invested in them. I do plan on upgrading the springs and rocker arms but those could easily be transfered to another head in the future. I'll probably do a mild port job on them to. I havent seen an aluminum head yet that really was cost effective for what I want to do. All I want is a realible 375hp street motor and thats it.
 
For all the money spent on a cast iron head, you'd think you'd look into something lighter, and easier to repair

Exactly..........

I'm pretty sure aftermarket valves are made to certain specs, and not labeled "only for GM"

Nope, but I guess I never wanted to.........

How much lift can you run on stock valves and head without mill work?

depends on the heads, where the valves are in the seat, ect. 480 is doable, sometimes, better to check and be sure.
 
Gee justin, you and Abomb were so worried about complicating the thread with horseshit you guys both missed the simple facts of what he would possibly NEED to do to make his heads work with 480 lift...... Something I have actually done, not just talked about. Feel free to follow me around, and show your true colors, I also posted in off topic about adding gas to diesel, if you want to go there........
 
thats because , from what he's told me through PM's, he's having the heads gone through and was exploring how far he could take these, as in future upgrades.
Thats how beehives came up and other parts that might not fit in the mild .480 cam idea yall had.

You can't force feed people knowledge, only put it out there with the pros cons so they can make the right choice for them,thats the idea... not tearing the other tech a new azzwhole.
 
before i smartened up i dropped 700 dollars in a set of 318 heads from 72. I installed 1.88 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves and hardened seats. and did some bowl work. i ran these 2 months before i changed from the 318 to a 360. Boy the money I used to waste half stepping.
 
before i smartened up i dropped 700 dollars in a set of 318 heads from 72. I installed 1.88 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves and hardened seats. and did some bowl work. i ran these 2 months before i changed from the 318 to a 360. Boy the money I used to waste half stepping.

I think when building a 318, you have to be in the mindset that you are going to build a 318, because you are, damnit! LOL. I like them for the reliability I have found.
I went from a 318, to a 440 in a 77 W150 club cab..... Man...... Tell you what....

Apples to Oranges? No, more like potatoes to oranges!

I used to be die-hard 318, anymore, if I ain't trying to get god MPG, there is no way in the world....... Wifes ramcharger is getting a 2bbl 318, LOL. Last RC I built her, with a NICE TBI 360 (cam, porting, ect) she got too many speeding tickets, then poked it's headlight out on the prop of a boat.......

:toothy10:
 
before i smartened up i dropped 700 dollars in a set of 318 heads from 72. I installed 1.88 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves and hardened seats. and did some bowl work. i ran these 2 months before i changed from the 318 to a 360. Boy the money I used to waste half stepping.
So you believe I'm wasteing my time and money on these freshly redone heads? Like I said if I can get around 375hp out of this mill which, for several high documented builds from hotrod and car craft, should be no problem. I just enjoy the hell out of these car right now and it probably has 180hp. So I dont see how I could find a cheaper route than the one I'm on. The heads you refer to from a 72 are far different than my heads in fact I believe that the 302 heads are almost identical to 360 heads from my research. When finished I think I'll have less than 300 into them with a port job.
I dont mind the differences in opinion or the heated debates 10 years in the army has given me a lot patients:thebirdm::toothy10:
 
I think when building a 318, you have to be in the mindset that you are going to build a 318, because you are, damnit! LOL. I like them for the reliability I have found.
I went from a 318, to a 440 in a 77 W150 club cab..... Man...... Tell you what....

Apples to Oranges? No, more like potatoes to oranges!
:toothy10:


I know theres no substitue for displacement my last car was a 70 camaro split bumper and i went all out and put a zz572 720hp crate engine in it. I could be cruising at 75mph and step on it and it would smoke tires. It was just ridiculous. I could never get it to hook up. My best 1/4 was a 10.08 at 132 with a 1.80 60ft.
 
302s are nowhere close to a 360 head. period.
375hp NA with just sticking big valves in 318 ports
is gonna amount to less perfomance then using the
stock 1.7ish 318 valves without porting. you need
to port em big time. i got 450++ hp from my 302s
and it wasn't easy. that i promise you. 375 HP will
be a hassle too. and when i say port.. i dont just
mean clean the bowls and gasket match.
 
Just make sure he knows what he is doing, that way you can be sure to get a good port job. Abomb is right, simply bigger valves do nothing, maybe even less.
I hogged the crap out of my 302's, and am happy with them, for LOW RPM duty......
 
So you believe I'm wasteing my time and money on these freshly redone heads? Like I said if I can get around 375hp out of this mill which, for several high documented builds from hotrod and car craft, should be no problem. I just enjoy the hell out of these car right now and it probably has 180hp. So I dont see how I could find a cheaper route than the one I'm on. The heads you refer to from a 72 are far different than my heads in fact I believe that the 302 heads are almost identical to 360 heads from my research. When finished I think I'll have less than 300 into them with a port job.
I dont mind the differences in opinion or the heated debates 10 years in the army has given me a lot patients:thebirdm::toothy10:

No i,m saying be sure the direction youre going is the one you will be happy with because if not it gets expensive fast. i still have those 318 heads and want to put them on a 360 truck tow vehicle. ought to have stump pulling characteristics down low with the right cam.little runners = power down low.
 
No i,m saying be sure the direction youre going is the one you will be happy with because if not it gets expensive fast. i still have those 318 heads and want to put them on a 360 truck tow vehicle. ought to have stump pulling characteristics down low with the right cam.little runners = power down low.

Done it lots, great MPG too, use a stock 318 2bbl, Offey Dual port, or a street dominator and you get one hell of a low RPM puller, not much past 4K tho.
 
302s are nowhere close to a 360 head. period.
375hp NA with just sticking big valves in 318 ports
is gonna amount to less perfomance then using the
stock 1.7ish 318 valves without porting. you need
to port em big time. i got 450++ hp from my 302s
and it wasn't easy. that i promise you. 375 HP will
be a hassle too. and when i say port.. i dont just
mean clean the bowls and gasket match.

I am very familar with how to port heads. I've been been building and racing motorcycles for the past 15 years. I'll be the first to admit I dont know much on mopar stuff so i figure its always smart to see what works and what doesnt. But like I said this is a street car that i want some more giddy up on. I think I'm going to go with some manley pro flo 1.94 & 1.6 valves. I do have a home made flow bench I use for my bikes that will work with a little mods to it.
 
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