8 3/4 axels???

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are you just trying to up your post count? and not reading whats posted?

have you even wrote down what the total will be if you piece together a rear?

$170 Housing
$30 Shipping
$150 Axles
$50 Shipping
$300 Pumpkin
$100 Shipping
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$800 and still not done!
 
well i won the housing:) it was cheaper then the others i was looking at and he said that price includes the core so im good there. just waiting. i asked before the end of the auction if that was the housing in the pic. lets hope not lol i dont want a 9" but if so i might have a 9" that is a body length for a 8 3/4 a or ba body length lol.

please hold the negitivity thanks
 
thank you:) and all i will need now is axels and bearings.

what is the stock leaf mount to mount and the relocated measurment? i know when you relocate them its 3" shorter but whats the width lol and from where on the mount are you measuring from thanks
 
thank you:) and all i will need now is axels and bearings.

what is the stock leaf mount to mount and the relocated measurment? i know when you relocate them its 3" shorter but whats the width lol and from where on the mount are you measuring from thanks


Once again, the answer is in this thread. Read your own thread.
 
Might be cheap but he'd need steam rollers to use it. Did you read the width? Nowhere close to A-body.

$202 for a good A-body width housing is a real good price considering it's basically refurbished and ready to assemble.

Shhh, he doesn't read.

Plus thats closer to what I want :D
 
will my shock mounts and pinion snubber from my 8 1/4 work on the 8 3/4?
thanks for all the answers to:) lots to read so sorry if i dont see it right away
 
the shock mounts should, I dunno about a factory snubber, as I've never used one.

I wanna know how much this rear costs you in the long run :D
 
so i am getting my housing the stock a body length for the 8 3/4 so how long of axels will i need? i thought the a body length for housing was 52 5/8" flange to flange but the guy doing the rear didnt think that was quite right so is checking his books. i found some axels that are 32" and can be cut to 23" with 30 spline. i will hopefully get my center chunk this weekend and can count the splines.
 
52 5/8 is correct.

If you are mini tubbing, I would go shorter. You'll need wheels with lots of offset at stock a body length.

23" is too short for axles. 25" axles will make the total rear width about 51.50-51.75 IIRC.

Just get axles from Dr Diff and be done with it. The total rear width with BBP axle standoffs will be right at 57 5/8"

IMHO, snubber = doorstop.
 
i actualy just found another rear complete. so i am gonna try to get it and just run it for now while i mini tub and all. so what would you suggest to cut the housing to? i wanna run 12.5" wide tires with the mini tub and spring relocated. i will call him tommorow and see if he already cut them or what maby have him wait till i decide how wide to make it. if i read it right cb said about 51.5" is that good for just the housing?
 
Tyler wheel offset dictates how wide you cut the housing. Nothing else. So there's no way we can tell you how wide to cut the housing. If you can tell us the wheel width and offset we can get you close but the way to properly find out what width you need is pull the old rearend and springs out and set the tire/wheel assy up in the wheel wells where you want them to be (centered in the wheel wells). Then measure from the back side of each rim (mounting surface) to the other. That's the total width the rearend needs to be from drum to drum. Don't make the mistake a buddy of mine made by buying a housing that was a couple inches narrower than stock and then having a extremely hard time finding wheels with the proper offset to make it work. Actually CB said 52-5/8 not 51.5" for stock size. Hope you don't mind I answered for you Rob.

bTW: How would you run a housing while you mini-tub?? You have to have it all apart to work on it. As I said above it's not as easy as just pulling a number out of the air for the housing width and hoping it'll work. You have to figure out what YOU need. Just because your buddy is running a certain size don't mean it'll work for you because your wheel size/offset could be different.
 
No sweat Fishy.

I pulled the 25" axles out of the air to give you an idea of total length.

If you minitub, ideally, get the wheels and tires you want to run before cutting the rear. Getting a rear that's already cut then finding wheels that fit right is a pain. To suggest a width for minitubbed... Anything from about 46-47" to 57.5" total drum to drum will work depending on wheel width and backspace.

Here's a good page with correct stock lengths...
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.html
 
ok i just want a good starting spot. i wont run any real extreme wheel. i was thinking get the ends right in the middle of the wheel well and go from there. i am getting some stock cop car wheels from a member here so i will probably run them for a while at least

i was meaning i will run the other rear with its length and whatever wheels will fit till i have a chance to mini tub and do the springs then set up the other one if its shorter
 
Something to think about.

Darts with the fender style have a hard time getting a wheel tire off with serious backspace. It's better to install a wheel that has a deep dish to get the wheel off. I've had Darts that the slicks had to be aired down in order to get the tire/wheel off.

Better to have a deep wheel, shorter axle in that case.
 
Green bearings suck for a street car. They don't handle sideload very well.Less drag for racing, but on a street car they will not last long.

thats not totally true i have had green bearings on my axles for years and drive on the street most all the time they are still as tight as the day they were pressed on, good all around bearing in my opinion i wouldnt run anything else
 
Something to think about.

Darts with the fender style have a hard time getting a wheel tire off with serious backspace. It's better to install a wheel that has a deep dish to get the wheel off. I've had Darts that the slicks had to be aired down in order to get the tire/wheel off.

Better to have a deep wheel, shorter axle in that case.

thats a good point. so would like 50" be to short? would i need no backspacing then?
 
sorry i let this thread die. kinda got put out on it. well i got my housing its cut to stock a-body length and i need actual axels now. something stock works for me im not to rich just need to get this car driving and fun lol pm me will probably work best and if they are in the denver co or cheyenne wy area that would work best thanks tyler
 
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