318 budget/low buck build.

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Valvebounce

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Hey team,
New user here.
I thought before I made my 1st post, I'd give the small block tech forum a good read. I've just read almost all of the threads that relate to me going right back to the 1st post. (Took a lot of reading too!)

Anyway, I was given a 318 small block for free a few years ago. (Saved it from going to the tip) The guy who gave it to me (A friend of my dads) had taken the heads, water pump, fuel pump and lifters off it. So it sat in the shed for a while gathering dust. then one day Dad mentioned that he'd found a place on the net, (in the US) that does REALLY cheap overhaul kits for mopars. (I'm in New Zealand btw) Since he was heading over to LA for a holiday, I said hey Lets get a kit for that old shortblock and save on postage.
So we pulled the motor down, and found that it was already .040 over, and despite being pretty dirty the pistons and bores were mint. After the crank was pulled and mic'd, we found it was only going to need a polish and it could be reused.
On one of the frost plugs in the front of the block, there was the remnants of an engine reconditioners tag too. Judging by the state of the bores and pistons, I'd not only say it didn't do much work since it was done, but that the rings may have never even bedded in right from the get go.
The cam bearings were still mint enough to not warrant replacing.
so a rings, bearings, and gasket kit (With moly top hastings rings) was only $112 (usd) You wouldn't even be able to buy the gasket set here for that price. (also bear in mind that it takes $1.37 of my money to get $1 of yours.)
As for the heads, there is a pair of 675's sitting on another old 318 over in the corner of the workshop. I've not pulled them off yet, but I'm told they have had 1.88's, and 1.6's fitted to them. Before you say lose the 675's, I have to say that there isn't much else available here. The last set of "J"s I saw for sale, the guy wanted $500 for. And they needed rebuilding!
So here's the plan for my build,

Zero deck the block. (try and get a bit of squish happening)

Use the 675 heads. (hopefully they'll just need a good 3 angle valve job)

Chose a cam like an XE268. (most likely I'll get the cam out of it reground to a similar spec, and some hardly used lifters refaced to suit)

Probably fit some used internal valvesprings inside the original ones. (depending on the machining costs to accomodate them)

Then make some custom pushrods to suit the ground cam and decked block/shaved head. (and maybe lash caps, if they're called for to keep the rocker geometry happy)

I picked up a brand new (standard) sealed power oil pump for $60.(NZD) (I'm going to strip this and check it out before fitting it as per another of Moper's tips)

Just run the .040 cast pistons that came with the motor, and reuse the timing chain. (It's in great shape, and can't have done many kms)

Then have the heads skimmed to bring the CR up to around the 10:1 mark.

Since my budget doesn't extend to having the rotating assembly balanced, or arp rod bolts, or even having the big ends resized, It's not going to be able to rev to any earth shattering RPMs. Plus the 675's will be a limiting factor here too. I read the article that mopar muscle did where they rebuilt a 318 on a really tight budget. And thought I may use a crosswind inlet. But after reading the negative things about them here I'm not so sure. I read Moper's post saying that going from a cross wind to an edelbrock meant he needed to go up 3 jet sizes due to the increased flow over the crosswind. (That was the death knell for me)
So bearing in mind the paramters of this engine combo, which manifold would you reccommend? Even with the slightly larger valves, I'm hoping to get some decent port velocity, and get some decent torque without the revs.
I'll be running a cheap $99 (Aussie dollars) electronic dizzy off Ebay Au. Just because for that price it isn't worth farting about with a 30 year old standard dizzy, and MSD boxes are just too far out of my price range. (Much as I'd love to run one)
Other things that might be worth mentioning, Here we can buy pump gas with a 98 octane, so the higher CR shouldn't be an issue. And after the motor has a few kms on it, I also have a brand new tunable nitrous oxide plate kit under my bed that may find it's way onto it.
Your thoughts please?

Bart.
PS, sorry about the essay, but after reading so many posts, I wanted to explain exactly what I'm up to clearly. (and I do ramble a bit)
 
I'm gonna go to Freddies to do some New Years Eve shopping, and get back with another essay......... in reply.......

Cheap 318's that run decent are right up my alley.

LOL
 
I wouldnt worry about the 675 head. 1.88 intake valve and port match the intake/exh.Maybe do a bit of bowl belding if you can do it. The 318 will like the small ports. That cam is about as much as the heads will handle.

Dont take the engine much past 5500 rpm and ensure you have good cooling.Also use full groove main bearings on the crank and rods.This should help make the rods last.

It's too bad your Dad didnt know to get some recon rods from Paw while he was in the states.
 
Budget builds is all I know. It sounds like you have a plan and I can't even imagine how hard it is to find good parts there at a good price. I wish shipping wasn't a killer, because there is a ton of sb parts on here all of the time for cheap.

I recently built a budget magnum headed 318 that is a little screamer. As far as using a crosswind intake it depends on who you talk to. I am currently running a crosswind on my little beater 318 and have had no issues. Gaskets lined up perfect and have had no leaking issues. Good luck with the build and keep us updated.
 
Thanks for the replies fellas.
I'm hoping to maybe get a cheap used inlet out of the US for this build. (Maybe off this site?) Given a max engine speed of say 5500, which manifold do you think is going to be the best option? (So I know which manifold to keep an eye out for?
My dad has a buddy in LA that I can get stuff shipped to, who can then onsend stuff down here for me. (Dad gets untold bits for his 65 imperial 'vert, and 68 fury 'vert sent down here this way)
In truth, I'm not 100% sure what body this motor will wind up fitted to yet. Decent A body mopar's are now fetching stupid money, and ALL the aussie assembled valiants (Which most of them are over here) were fitted with a grossly inadequate differential which is too too easy to kill.
I have the choice of a 904, 727, or an A833 for it. I'd reallt like to drag race this puppy. (Especially with the bottle on it)
The sad thing here is the turbo skyline and silvia boys pretty much hold all the cards. I'm even contemplating fitting this donk to a nissan shell. (they at least have a decent diff, but don't hate me for it :happy9:) It's be good to get one up on the jappa's.
 
I couldn't read the first post. To lengthy for my tired eyes, but as far as a "On the cheap" 318 build, click this for my veiw; http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=10508

A "Inlet" or intake manifold for 5500 would be a;
OE iron 4bbl
Edelbrock Performer
A old Edelbrock LD4B
Weiand (Say Why-and) Action Plus intake manifold. (Up to 6,000 rpm's)

The head would be based on how much power you want to make along with being coupled with cam and axle ratio.

What is the HP goal?
In what vehicle and weight?

Look in the for sale area here for a Performer or such.
 
The goal HP would be around 220-230rwhp. The low buck build in mopar muscle made 230rwhp. and they spent $1700. My total budget is around the $700 mark. (thats $700 of the pacific Pesos too) I'm hoping that the heads won't need more than a valve job, or else that'll be a costly exersize. (My old man just spent $600 having the "J" heads off his 340 rebult with new guides, and hardened seats)
I'm not sure what the weight of the vehicle is, but it would weigh less than your average late '60's Dart/Valiant.
After sleeping on it, I was perhaps leaning towards the LD4b, due to the good port matching to my 675 heads. (trying to chase that velocity)

I did have a quick browse through the for sale forum yesterday whilest waiting for my 1st post to be okay'd by a mod. I have to say stuff over there is eye wateringly cheap!
I have too many projects on the go atm as well. A '70 Aussie valiant regal, and a '73 Aussie valiant charger. (As well as a couple of early '70s datsuns)
 
install ss valves on exhaust if you need hardin seats will not need hardin seats with ss valves
 
The goal HP would be around 220-230rwhp.

That is about 300 HP at the crank and that is an easy to do level. Your biggest challenge is a decent comprssion ratio. Ethier new pistons or mill the heads. Milling heads creates other issues. Bolt hole alignment for the intake to head.
 
Would you not just (or have to) remove material from the valley faces of the block, or the underside of the manifold to correct the manifold bolt alignment issue?
I did see something about a rule of thumb regarding how much material had to be removed from the valley gasket face somewhere on here.
 
If you mill the head, then you must remove some of the intake side of the head. It is possible to also need to remove some metal from the bottom of the intake.

These amounts are spec'd in the engines manual from Mopar in there engines book for your size engine.

I do not have them handy here now.
 
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