Stroker Oiling
fishy68. Are you talking about this pickup?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-18650/
No. I looked through everything they have listed now and they don't have the one like I bought a couple yrs. back. It looked like this one
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-18345/
But was for a stock depth pan.
Sorry to mis-inform you. I thought they still made it. That one you have the link to looks like a stock replacement type.
I know you don't really want to go through notching the K-frame but the recommendation above to use a pan with good baffles really is a good recommendation for any high perf. engine. It's more work and cost now but nothing in comparison to what would be required if something happens to your new engine.
About the cast pistons vs. forged pistons. The reason forged pistons are a must is because the long stroke creates faster piston speeds. With your 273 the piston speed at 6000 rpm was 3310 ft. per sec. With a 4" stroke crank it's 4000 ft. per sec. so revving the stroker to 6000 is just like revving the 273 to 7300 rpm. Plus the side wall loading is higher with a longer stroke. A cast piston just won't hold up good under those circumstances. JMO
Bearing type and hv vs. std. oil pump is a big debate and probably always will be. I was always taught to run a HV pump and full groove mains also. The full groove mains do have a plus of providing oil to the rods all the time but it's at the expense of taking away strength from the mains. Remember there's more surface area contacting the crank with a half groove main bearing than a full groove bearing. And that extra contact area with a 1/2 groove bearing (3/4 groove also) is the high load area. So it's essentially a trade off. I like the idea of 3/4 groove bearings for the reason they allow more oiling to the rods but don't take away much contact area from the mains. I came to this conclusion after much research and talking to several reputable engine builders, including Moper.
