408 windage tray

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I always thought the reason for the extra washers, were that they were for the 273 & 318 main caps. These main caps are shorter than the 340 & 360. If you compare 273/318 to the 340/360 main bolt lentgh, you can see the difference. The windage tray bolts only come in the one lentgh.
As for running a tray, Chysler must have seen a need for them. Lets face it, if they could have saved a dollar, they would have. The hP number that I have heard & referenced to was 25HP when running a tray. It would be interesting to see a comparison with/without on a dyno. I for one have been using them in every engine I have built for the last 32 years.
 
so after i read this question im curious...i just recently bought a built 318..i know nothing about. I'm taking it apart and its like a treasure chest. haha. but when i took the 4 cap bolts that the windage tray bolts to. there were two thick washers under them (maybe 5/8" total). Is this normal? i didnt even think to look to see if the crank was a stock one. could i possibly have a stroker? how can i tell?
 
AJ71DUSTER said:
did you add any washers to the main cap bolts? and still had to cut the tray?
I added one washer that were supplied to the cap bolts and the tray does clear but it's real close.

thanks
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Are you using ARP studs or bolts?

I'm not sure if I read this correctly or not but don't use any more than one washer between the main cap and the nut or head of the bolt, the ARP washers do collapse a little when they are torqued down and if you use more than one washer they can cause the mains to loosen up. They don't seem to collapse as much at 85ft# but they do at 90ft# which is what the studs get torqued to.

ARP doesn't say anything about the washers collapsing in the paper work that comes in their kits, but I found this when I was clearanceing my 416, I ended up having to throw out over 12 washers that collapsed so I called ARP and asked them about it, all they said was it does happen on some engines. I took that as an idiotic reply since you would think their washers should hold up the the torque specs they give you to use.
 
There should never be any washers under the factory bolt heads. They should be used between the tray and the bolt head if needed. For a 318 you should not need any washers. I've just swapped bolts and installed the trays on them before...

As far as telling the stroke. If it's together... Take a ruler and stick one end on the piston when it's all the way down in the hole. Note the distance to the deck. Then bring it up to the top and note the distance. The difference is the stroke.
 
moper said:
There should never be any washers under the factory bolt heads.
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That is correct on factory bolts, but not with ARP studs and some ARP bolts. There are other aftermarket bolts that require washers as well.
 
tmj91 said:
so after i read this question im curious...i just recently bought a built 318..i know nothing about. I'm taking it apart and its like a treasure chest. haha. but when i took the 4 cap bolts that the windage tray bolts to. there were two thick washers under them (maybe 5/8" total). Is this normal? i didnt even think to look to see if the crank was a stock one. could i possibly have a stroker? how can i tell?
Click to expand...

if you read my last reply, the washers are there so the tray will clear the crank. because the main caps are not as tall as the 340 or 360. this is why when you buy a windage tray package, it comes with 8 washers. they go between the head of the bolt & the main cap.
 
mikedevore said:
if you read my last reply, the washers are there so the tray will clear the crank. because the main caps are not as tall as the 340 or 360. this is why when you buy a windage tray package, it comes with 8 washers. they go between the head of the bolt & the main cap.
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This is correct, I needed to us the washers on my 273.
 
I have a '89 360 factory roller, stroked to 408, and my factory windage tray bolted right up, no modification needed.
 
I use one washer under the main cap bolts on my 408 that the tray bolts to, with out this washer that was supplied in the mopar windage kit ,the bottum of rods during rotation would hit the tray.the washers did not collapse under the 90ft# and I'm not sure if the bolts are ARP not.

thanks for your replies
 
kevko & a stock pan pics

Picture 657.jpg


Picture 656.jpg
 
Tom Q said:
kevko & a stock pan pics
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Thanks, Tom.

Do you run a hemi skid plate to protect that Kevco from scraping?

Did you still add some side baffles? Looks like it just have fore and aft baffles.
 
Engine is still on the cradle, when it gets installed I will put a skid plate on the k frame.
As far as side baffles-none-the accusump takes care of that. Most of my oil pressure fluctuation comes from braking hard not turns.
 
Tom Q said:
Engine is still on the cradle, when it gets installed I will put a skid plate on the k frame.
As far as side baffles-none-the accusump takes care of that. Most of my oil pressure fluctuation comes from braking hard not turns.
Click to expand...

Do you think we could get away without using an accusump if there was a properly made and designed oil pan.

I'll see what happens tommorrow. Going out for a track day at Willow Springs. :cheers:

New minilite-like rims.

Copy of PICT0449.JPG
 
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