1920 Holley carb question

I went the re-build route thinking a Holley 1920 rebuilt by Holley would be done right. WRONG-O! First off, it was jetted with a 62 rather than the 52 that should have been in there. Then as things wore a bit, I discovered that the circlip that keeps the float on the hinge pin had been left off.

The Slantsix.org site has the 1920 repair guide available in .pdf format. It's 1.87 MB, so I can't attach it here.

The rest of the story:
The original carb that came with the car had a non-op accelerator pump. Bought the rebuild from AutoZone. It did not leak, it had all of the right ports and connections, and it worked right out of the box. Fuel mileage took a dive. Initially, Hemi-like fuel mileage attributed to change in exhaust manifold that removed all carb heat. After a while, the car would start, run for a few seconds then stall out. I pulled the air filter housing off and restarted the car. Fuel came out the carb vent and the car stalled. By this point I had heard plenty of horror stories of re-built carbs. Since I just needed to get the car running until I could get the 4 bbl on it, I bit the bullet and decided to rebuild my own rebuilt carburetor. I did research, downloaded the repair guide, and got after it. Have a clean work space, (I used old medicine bottles to keep the tiny parts from wandering off), and don't be in a hurry. The work isn't hard. I caught the jet issue right away. As I was doing prep on the 4 bbl, I noticed it had circlips on the floats. Looking closer at the 1920, I saw the ring on the hinge pin where a clip would go and installed one. Didn't see anything else wrong, so I buttoned it up. All works fine. Fuel mileage is MUCH better, now.

I got the carb rebuild kit (used only a circlip and the fuel bowl gasket) from AutoZone and the jet came from Summit Racing.