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mojo6964

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Have a 72' Duster with points and condensor wanting to change to electronic ignition, what was the first year or will any of the later years work on a slant 6?
 
I believe 1972 was the first year they went electronic. So any electronic setup after 1972 should work for you as long as you make sure it's not from a lean burn model.
 
'73 was the first year for electronic ignition across the board. You should be safe ordering parts for any slant from '73 to '76. You will need an electronic distributor, a ballast resistor, and a wiring harness if you go stock Mopar. You could also buy a Pertronix Ignitor, swap it into your distributor (replaces points) and go on down the road.
 
grumpuscreature said:
'73 was the first year for electronic ignition across the board. You should be safe ordering parts for any slant from '73 to '76. You will need an electronic distributor, a ballast resistor, and a wiring harness if you go stock Mopar. You could also buy a Pertronix Ignitor, swap it into your distributor (replaces points) and go on down the road.
Click to expand...
What would be the easiest, cheapest and quickest way. My son eventually wants a 340 but for now it's to hard to get timing set and it doesn't seem to run quite right. Motor just rebuilt and I kited the carb but it just still wants to fall on it's face on take off and low speeds. I thought it was like a power valve issue but not quite sure what type of set up on a one barrell.
 
What would be the cheapest, quickest and the easiest? My son wants a 340 but for now it has to work. Timing seems to be off and I don't have a dwell meter either. Car falls on it's face on take off and low speeds. I put a kit in the carb but didn't seem to help. It acts like a power valve problem but on a one barrell. I thought maybe electronic ignition would help it some. Any help anyone?????
 
Quick, easy, and cheap don't all go together. Easiest and quickest would probably be to replace the points with a Pertronix Ignitor. Cheapest would be swapping on junkyard factory parts.
 
Thanks for the input guys, last night his car died. It's getting fuel but not fire. Ballast appears good(continuity across it), changed coil, changed points and condensor. Car has spark but seems to not fire(through a plug on the fender) as often as it should. When trying to start the engine it will not fire at all. Any ideas????????????????????????????????? Even used ether!
 
A ready to run distributor for the 273/318/340/360 will fix you right up. They can be found for around $70 and are a complete drop in replacement for your old distributor. You can leave the ballast in place and you don't have to re-wire anything.The electronics are built in. It really woke up my stock 318. You may have to invest in some new plug wires as well with male leads for the net dist cap. A set of universals can be had for $15. You just have to put on the ends.
This is the one I installed.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPA...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4cec11b867
 
Hows the engine ground? Insulation cracked or missing and you should replace it.
 
SoulSurvivor said:
A ready to run distributor for the 273/318/340/360 will fix you right up. They can be found for around $70 and are a complete drop in replacement for your old distributor. You can leave the ballast in place and you don't have to re-wire anything.The electronics are built in. It really woke up my stock 318. You may have to invest in some new plug wires as well with male leads for the net dist cap. A set of universals can be had for $15. You just have to put on the ends.
This is the one I installed.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPA...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4cec11b867
Click to expand...


A smallblock distributor will fit in a slant????
 
Good one. I don't see how I missed that. Well..actually I do. I don't remember much of the 70's. Sorry for the misinformation.
 
try a new coil wire first. always eliminate the simple things. also a cracked cap or moisture under it will scramble fire and make it run like crap.at the risk of repeating myself lol
 
If you're really baffled, pull the cap and confirm the rotor is spinning. A cracked distributor gear can make it turn only sometimes, resulting in an occasional spark at random intervals.
 
Thanks guys for the info and input.You've really been helpful. I replaced all plug wires in Oct, 7mm wire, cap and bug look good. I looked for any burnt spots under the cap and inside is dry. I will watch the rotor, I hadn't thought of that and it does I believe have a fiber or plastic gear I think. I may have access to a full electronic set up off a 73 or later. Is that swap very hard to rewire. I'm definitly noy a electrician!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Very easy here is a diagram

ecudia.jpg
 
OOOOOOOKKKK!!!! Replaced dist cap, rotor, points, ballast, plug wires and plugs are 2 months old, timing has not been touched since car quit. Now when you try to start it, it blows back through the carb like its 180 out. Plug wire placement rechecked, pulled valvecover to check no valve stuck, rechecked TDC which is ok, still backfires. Rotor moves like it should, car did not backfire prior to quiting the other night. I'm lost now and don't know where to look. Somebody please have a better idea!!!!!!!!
 
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