Missiles Frame Connectors
OK guys lets see if I can explain this well enough without a pic of the connectors before I put them in . I took pics with my wife's phone but the stupid Motorola software isnt working to get them off so I borrowed a camera
and got pics after the fact.
Some one in another post about frame connectors, sent us all to big block dart, there was a series of pics using 2x3 tubing to do it.
After measuring and evaluating all the great info here, I decided to use
1 1/2"x3" Tubing in stead.
You dont have to cut the floorboard, and you still get a solid 1' of attachment to it.
the tubes are 46"long, at one end you cut out 8" of the top 3"face, and at the other end you cut off 1" of the three faces creating an 1" tab for the tranny crossmember end.The other end will slip over the existing rear frame member quite nicely.
I used a floor jack to push up on the piece which snugged it up against the floor pan as well.
I also made an end plate 5"x4" that sits at the end with the tab to make attaching that end easier. Weld every place that touches.
I then made a couple of mid-span supports to attach the portion of the floor that was out of reach of the tube.
The end result is the connectors are no lower to the ground, than the original frame save1/8"
I have about $30 in this project.
Andrew
OK guys lets see if I can explain this well enough without a pic of the connectors before I put them in . I took pics with my wife's phone but the stupid Motorola software isnt working to get them off so I borrowed a camera
and got pics after the fact.
Some one in another post about frame connectors, sent us all to big block dart, there was a series of pics using 2x3 tubing to do it.
After measuring and evaluating all the great info here, I decided to use
1 1/2"x3" Tubing in stead.
You dont have to cut the floorboard, and you still get a solid 1' of attachment to it.
the tubes are 46"long, at one end you cut out 8" of the top 3"face, and at the other end you cut off 1" of the three faces creating an 1" tab for the tranny crossmember end.The other end will slip over the existing rear frame member quite nicely.
I used a floor jack to push up on the piece which snugged it up against the floor pan as well.
I also made an end plate 5"x4" that sits at the end with the tab to make attaching that end easier. Weld every place that touches.
I then made a couple of mid-span supports to attach the portion of the floor that was out of reach of the tube.
The end result is the connectors are no lower to the ground, than the original frame save1/8"
I have about $30 in this project.
Andrew