360 cam / valve train help / choices

I do plan on milling the block whats needed to obtain my target comp. I've went this far, so after a mock up I'll dis-assemble the assy. & have the tops shaved. Thanks for the fyi.....heading that direction already.

?Can I just mock up the four corners to determine piston ht to top of block rather than doing all 8 pistons? Seems like stuffing the two center holes on both sides would be a waste of time. Never went this far on internals so I could be wrong.

I would think just doing the 4 corners would be fine if quality parts are used. I say that because stock parts can vary a few thous. and you may put in one piston and rod and it set .010 below the deck and another P&R combo will set .020 below.

Bear with me. You are using stock "stamped" non-adjustable rockers with your Lunati 60404?

Yes, and I am pushing the limits using stock type rockers. They are the Mopar Perf. aftermarket ones but their basically stock type. They are possibly heavier gauge steel since their called Heavy Duty by Mopar but I don't know that for sure. Normally I don't push the limits but this engine was only for short term use as I planned on building a stroker to replace it, which I now have nearly finished.

What valve springs / retainers n such did you use?

I am using the Comp cams 995-16 springs and matching retainers and locks. I already had them or I would have went with Lunati's. Their real close to the specs the cam recommends.

What is your rpm range? / Would you use this same cam-spring combo again?

I have a 3k stall and it is right there pulling real hard as soon as I nail it and pulls hard to 6K. I'm not sure how it'd do under 3k since it has a loose converter I can't tell. It will pull to 6400-6500 but you can tell that it's not really making any usable power up there so I shift at 6k as that seems to do the best. I think if I did it again I'd use the springs Lunati recommends just because I'm a believer in using what the mfg. recommends. The springs I have on now are 5 lbs. shy on the seat and 10 lbs. shy over the nose. Probably not enough diff to make it pull much more rpm than it does
.

Lifter pre-load would be dictated by push rod length if non-adj. stamped rockers were used. Correct? A little ahead of the build talking pre-load; however what is the ideal lifter pre-load? As little as possible?

Thanks

Right. As Rumble stated most cams call for .050 pre-load but I personally use that as a max just because if the lifter pumps up it leaves the valve hanging open .050" and if you run a little less pre-load and the lifter pumps up their isn't as much chance of a valve smacking a piston. I shoot for .025"~.030" on the ones I do. Still plenty of pre-load IMO.