Dana or 8 3/4?!? Need opinions

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BrianT

BrianT

Here we go again...
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Well, as some of you know, I've been working on a mini tub/spring relocation/disc brake project on my 67 Dart. Everything was done, and we were mocking up the disc brakes, when my buddy noticed how wide the rear end looked. We took some measurements and sure enough, to run 10 inch wide wheels would require 7 1/2 inches of backspacing. That is not the look I wanted.

I double checked my measurements and decided that I needed to cut off 2 1/2 inches from each end of the housing. That would center a 10 inch wheel with 5 inches of backspacing. I found a local fabricator that would cut the housing and axles down the required width for $300.

Then, I get several people telling me, "don't cut down your A body rear end, they're getting rare, get a B body housing and cut it down". Well, Friday night we pulled the rear end out, and Saturday morning it was SOLD and off to it's new home!!

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Now the question is, what do I put in to replace it?!? I will probably have Cass (Dr. Diff) build me a rear end, but I don't know which one. There is only about $300 difference in the Dana and the 8 3/4 packages that he sells. The only thing that is holding me back on the Dana is clearance issues between the cover and my gas tank. A fuel cell is not an option.

I will be building a 408 next winter and am running a 727 with a mild stall. I plan on running 325/50R15 drag radials with Cal tracs. This is for a weekend cruiser with maybe a couple of trips to the strip per year.

Which rear end would you run and why?!?
 
My buiddy ran a 8-3/4 with everything you have listed so far except his 440 is stroked to 500 cubes and runs Indy heads with a monster roller to the tune of 9.20's in the 1/4.

While the Dana is stronger and the extra weight and power to run it is moot and stupid to argue about, it is a little garder to get replacement parts, not that the 8-3/4 is like a candy store part ethier....

Also, ethier will be big bucks to seriously run in compotion.
IMO, I'd run a 8-3/4 just simplely for the ease of gear ratio swap.
Resell, trade/barter/repair...what ever.

If I was campaining the car. DANA.
 
I ran an 8 3/4 in my cuda for years of weekend racing, behind an automatic with a 489 case(bigger Pinion) there pretty indestructible. I was running 11.20's hitting the slicks hard. Now a 4 spd is different, that is the only time I had problems, and it was on a smaller pinion gear than the 489. Rumblefish makes a great point, that the ease of changing gears is nice. The Dana is great for the shock and awe visual, like a six-pack carb set-up, but there both gonna slow you down.
 
The six pack maybe, the rear differences are to small to bother with. If you NEED the DANA for strength, the weight/HP useage factor is a nill item and near nothing on the street.
 
I personally dont think you NEED a dana, but imo if your going to have build one up from scratch, id just go all the way to a dana...an 8-3/4 would last quite a while behind an auto (although some will tell you otherwise...opinions are like a-holes rite) i think your need for speed is only going to ever progress in the future, and with a dana under the car your done having to worry about that part of the driveline for pretty much forever lol...the price difference between the two is too little imo to stil build the 8-3/4 (wish i had done a dana in the first place)...also i havent heard of guys having trouble with the gas tank, only with the rear end moved back have i heard that...is your rear in the stock location or moved back some?
 
I've got a 8 3/4 in my duster now,have a Dana 60 housing narrowed and gathering the part's now,I'm going for the WOW factor when I get the big block done.
 
The dana will not even slow you down 1/10 of a second. Unless you need the ability to quickly change gear ratios and if you are going to spend money on having something built, you might as well go almost indestructible; Dana.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Resell, trade/barter/repair...what ever.
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I sold the rear end and new axles for $750 I sold another diff that I had laying around for $400 and my company profit sharing kicked in $500!! I'll have to make up the difference out of pocket.

I guess I like the shock and awe look of a Dana in an A body, but it will definitely be overkill for my application. Although a little extra weight on the rear will probably be a good thing. I don't plan on swapping gears a bunch. Probably run 3.55ish and stay there. I hope to install it, and forget about it.

My rear end is in the stock location, but I have seen people move the rear back for tire clearance and to center the wheel in the housing. I am going to run a 28 inch tires so I don't think I'll hit the front edge. I don't know how much thicker a Dana housing is compared to a 8 3/4. There didn't seem to a lot of room between the old housing and the gas tank.
 
Its already been said. They are both good rears. Each has there advantage and disadvantages. The Dana 60 will give you a stronger rear and you can install a 3.54 gear and go. Nothing has that look of a dana 60 from the back either. I guess its just what you really want. You could go with the 8 3/4 and save $300.00 for your stroker. Up to you they are bother very good rears. At least you are not considering a ford 9" to go under it. Again nothing wrong with a 9" very good rears, but the are for a FORD!
Matt
 
I can't see a Dana fitting with a stock gas tank. I run a 742 case behind my 340 4 speed with Hoosier DOT slicks. I have some old Summers Brothers axles in it and run the 7290 u-joints. I must have made about 20 passes at the drag strip. So far, no problems. The 340 dyno'ed at 458HP.

My opinion - if you NEED the Dana, go for it. If you don't need the Dana, but just WANT one, go for it. Otherwise an 8-3/4 should be fine.
 
nice thing about the dana 60 is they can be found cheap I got 1 out of a pickup and buddy got 1 out of a van both 3:55 track lok at 2 different U-pull it yards $50 each
 
hi, the dana will fit, with out hitting the gas tank. you won't be able to use a cover with supports. you don't need those! second, the dana will not slow you down. a problem with the 8 3/4 is the housing will bend without a back brace. it will toe in.the dana doesn't have that problem. also, I weighed both setups, there was only 35 # difference.the dana of choice is one out of a 1967-72 ford 1/2 ton pickup. they are the lightest, have passenger car ends and are a 30 slpine, same as a 8 3/4. you can, weld 8 3/4 ends on and use your 8 3/4 axles. change the yoke to a mopar, I done that to my 72 duster.
 
my swinger has got an 8 3/4 (because I had one) until I pull the 360 4spd out, then I have a 4:10 DANA to follow the 440 4spd.
 
fourspeed said:
I can't see a Dana fitting with a stock gas tank. I run a 742 case behind my 340 4 speed with Hoosier DOT slicks. I have some old Summers Brothers axles in it and run the 7290 u-joints. I must have made about 20 passes at the drag strip. So far, no problems. The 340 dyno'ed at 458HP.

My opinion - if you NEED the Dana, go for it. If you don't need the Dana, but just WANT one, go for it. Otherwise an 8-3/4 should be fine.
Click to expand...

I have a Dana installed with a stock gas tank..................

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I just got my price quote from Cass. I guess I requested a quote for a custom 8 3/4 because the price for the 60 was posted on his website. Here is a break down on the 8 3/4

30 spline A-body axle pkg 25.5" long with 2" or 3" lug studs installed $325 pair
Bolt in 47.625" housing with new tubes, new ends and new perches $400
489 casting 3.55 power-lock third-member with choice of yoke $1075 all new internals

Freight runs approximately $175 to a business address.

The total for the 8 3/4 is $1800 plus shipping...the same EXACT price that is listed on his website for the Dana!!!

That makes my decision pretty easy.
 
Hmmm Danad or 8 3/4.... Well I say either is good, if you look at the S/S Darts and Barraauds of '68 they had both. The auto cars got the 8 3/4 whyle the stick cars got the Dana. Makes sense. I figure if these rears were good enough for the engineers at Ma Mopar they are good enough for me. I am putting a 426 hemi in my 68 Barracuda, and am more than happy with my 8 3/4 rear. I have a 742 carrier, sure grip, and 4.10 gears. SUperstock springs with competition engineering adjustable shocks. I am going for both shock and awe factor. I had the rear powder coated, and added some Wilwood disc brakes. I have also installed axles from Mark Williams. Although in hind site, I should have gone the Dana 60 route for the coolness look from the rear. Nothing says that you are loaded for bear more than a Dana 60 visible from behind!!!!!!!!!
 
BrianT said:
I just got my price quote from Cass. I guess I requested a quote for a custom 8 3/4 because the price for the 60 was posted on his website. Here is a break down on the 8 3/4

30 spline A-body axle pkg 25.5" long with 2" or 3" lug studs installed $325 pair
Bolt in 47.625" housing with new tubes, new ends and new perches $400
489 casting 3.55 power-lock third-member with choice of yoke $1075 all new internals

Freight runs approximately $175 to a business address.

The total for the 8 3/4 is $1800 plus shipping...the same EXACT price that is listed on his website for the Dana!!!

That makes my decision pretty easy.
Click to expand...

Well, if an 8-3/4 is going to cost you that kind of money, then forget about it. Sheesh.
 
Chrysler felt it was necessary to put a Dana behind their big 3 engines with 4 speeds, so if you`re running a 4 speed then go with the Dana. If you`re going automatic then run a (742 cased) 8.75 with a pro set of gears. If you opt for the Dana make sure you get the 35 spline set-up because if you don`t you really haven`t accomplished anything besides adding weight to the car.
 
Longgone said:
If you opt for the Dana make sure you get the 35 spline set-up because if you don`t you really haven`t accomplished anything besides adding weight to the car.
Click to expand...

Yes, it's the 35 spline axles...

Strange 60 housing with snubber provision (without perches), choice of housing ends, 35 spline Trak-Lok, Standard gears, 1350 yoke, street & strip axles, green bearings, retainers, 1/2″ studs, assembled with chrome cover…………$1700
 
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