Instrument Cluster Rebuilding

Thank you for adding input to my troubled gauge debacle.

Here is a better example of the symptoms I have:

Fuel Gauge - The fuel gauge reads empty when there is over 10 gallons left. I have replaced the tank with a Spectra one. The Sender was replaced when I bought the car, so I checked the ohms and it equally drops from 75 to 9 ohm. In an effort to trick or test the dash gauge, I slightly bend the float arm down. This registered the level higher.

Temperature Gauge - The gauge seems to work fine sometimes and other times, it say I am about to overheat. More often than not, it says I am going to boil over any second. I have professionally boiled out the radiator, flushed the block, replace the 180 t-stat, replaced water pump, and all hoses. I have tested the temp with a laser temp gauge and it is running between 175 and 185. ** I also changed the sending unit. However the new unit reads that the engine is even hotter. I am not using any tape or sealant on the threads to make sure the sender is properly grounded.

Alternator Gauge - Seems to work fine.

Dash Lights - At night, I can see that the temp and fuel lights are slightly pulsating. I assume this is from the 5v voltage limits contact. Also, when the headlights are on, if I hit the turn signals all the lights flash on or dim with the beat of the flasher - except from the gauges right. I have replaced the headlight switch to correct the previous flickering of the dash lights.

Speedometer Bounce - Seems to work fine with speed and such, the needle just bounces more at certain speeds.



** I am willing to buy new stuff to correct this. However, I am having a hard time actually finding the gauges. I saw a fuel gauge on a website for $125 but for the life of me, I can find that site again.

Any help would be much appreciated. ( I am going to re-read through the links you sent me now)

-Joe