Looking to possibly put a Dana in my Dart,few questions for those in the know.

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Sanitylost

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Currently running a stock width 8 3/4 in my Dart. The car is mini tubbed and has the 3" inboard kit installed.
If I go with the Dana will I have to shorten my drive shaft? I had one made with the larger U-joints when I switched from the 7 1/4 rear to the 8 3/4 rear.
Will the Dana fit with the stock gas tank?
Are the U bolts the same as well has the shock plates from the 8 3/4?
The 8 3/4 has held up great with no problems with my other 440's I've had in the past, I'm just leary with the 512" in there now thinking that my rear is possibly the weak link now. Also like the awe factor of a Dana sitting outback makes people wonder...
 
Sanitylost said:
Currently running a stock width 8 3/4 in my Dart. The car is mini tubbed and has the 3" inboard kit installed.
If I go with the Dana will I have to shorten my drive shaft? Yes about 1.25" shorter
I had one made with the larger U-joints when I switched from the 7 1/4 rear to the 8 3/4 rear.

Will the Dana fit with the stock gas tank? Yes, as long as stock location and you don't use one of the ultimate aluminum covers

Are the U bolts the same as well has the shock plates from the 8 3/4? Yes, as long as the axle tubes are 3". You can get some U bolt from Dr Diff that are tight radius for the 3 1/8" tubes.

The 8 3/4 has held up great with no problems with my other 440's I've had in the past, I'm just leary with the 512" in there now thinking that my rear is possibly the weak link now. Also like the awe factor of a Dana sitting outback makes people wonder...
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Good luck. Nothing beats the look of a Dana under an A body...

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Good answers from Cracked.

I'm doing the same thing right now. My old 8 3/4 is gone, sold 2 weeks ago. Nothing but leafs hangin there!!

I had Cass quote me a price, I just haven't pulled the trigger on a $2k rear end. Yet...
 
Thanks Crackedback, Now I just have to wait for a price from Dr.diff. Also have someone local that would be more then capable of doing the rear, So the research will continue.
BrianT what are you putting in that rear for the 2k price tag if you don't mind me asking.
 
First, I love your car Sanity!

If you are frugal in purchasing stuff, you can build a rear for under $1K. $1200 with a powerlock sure grip if you want to go that direction.

Rear $100
shorten $100
ends $80 Dr Diff
axles $300 Dr Diff
powerlock $150
gears $50-175
bearings $120 Dr Diff
set up $150

$1205 buy my count using the high side price on gears

Use the brakes from your 8.75 rear

It's all a time/money thing. Take longer to build them, more convenient to make a call to the Doc.
 
hi, try to find a dana 60 from a 1967-72 ford 1/2 ton pickup. they are lighter, and the axle splines are same as mopar. cut ends and weld on 8 3/4 ends. this way , you can use your parts. change the yoke from a ford to a mopar and its there. plus, i found , they are cheaper to buy. the cost is way under 2000$. just food for thought.. I have one under my duster!!!
 
Got a truck Dana for mine , I had Moser do the cutting and set up, Nothing looks better under a Mopar then a Dana............
You may not need all the strength of a Dana , but you will love the look

Cuda Mini Tub work Nov 2009 031 resized.jpg


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You're right. There is a convenience charge associated with Cass (Dr. Diff), but it comes with the knowledge and expertise that he possesses.

I have been searching for a while and found some parts that I could put together, but feel that additional costs are worth the peace of mind that Cass brings to the table. I have never heard a bad word from anyone about him.

Call it rear end insurance if you want.
 
Brian,

You are correct, Cass is tough to beat from a service standpoint. He's a good guy.
 
Just put one in my Duster. I paid $1700 shipped for a freshly built drum-to-drum with powerlock, yukon axles, 3" studs and the spring perches moved in for my spring relocation. Waiting for my driveshaft to come in to finish it all up.
 
64physhy said:
Just put one in my Duster. I paid $1700 shipped for a freshly built drum-to-drum with powerlock, yukon axles, 3" studs and the spring perches moved in for my spring relocation. Waiting for my driveshaft to come in to finish it all up.
Click to expand...

Who built your rear end? Cass quoted me $1875 plus $175 shipping
 
BrianT said:
Who built your rear end? Cass quoted me $1875 plus $175 shipping
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I got it from a guy who sells them on Ebay. Goes by 2116cassandra. Nice guy. It originally didn't come with the backing plates or brake hardware, but after talking to him on the phone, he threw them in. It was an old set of brakes that needed rebuilt, but at least it was a starting point and free. It was set up for stock A-body width on the spring perches, and I think he charged me $35 to move them in because I have my springs moved in. He's somewhere out close to Carlisle and shipped it truck freight, took less than a week to get here to Southern CA.
 
crackedback said:
First, I love your car Sanity!

If you are frugal in purchasing stuff, you can build a rear for under $1K. $1200 with a powerlock sure grip if you want to go that direction.

Rear $100
shorten $100
ends $80 Dr Diff
axles $300 Dr Diff
powerlock $150
gears $50-175
bearings $120 Dr Diff
set up $150

$1205 buy my count using the high side price on gears
Click to expand...

That is probably as cheap as you will get. I just did mine and spent nearly double that using my old brakes. The shortening cost $250, a second hand but new Detroit Locker was $450 (price out a new one!), Richmond gears were $265, 35 spline axles were around $500 and assembly labor was around $250. I think the entire bill was $1800 not including the housing and ends. Things are a bit more money up here though.
 
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