Machinists please help

-
wigsplitter74

wigsplitter74

The Mopar Kid
Joined
Feb 9, 2009
Messages
472
Reaction score
3
Location
Janesville, WI
So I've never gone through the whole engine rebuild process before but now it's time to and I wana know if this sounds fair or not, please no insults or rude remarks, just the honest truth here, thank you.

This is the estimate:
Block Machining Package
-Strip, Hot Tank and Mag Block
-Deburr Block, clearance Timing chain, oil drainbacks, deburr caps and saddles, tap all threaded holes, smooth oil passage at oil pump mount
-True Deck Block to proper height
-Bore Cylinders .030"
-Hone Cylinders with Torque plate, gasket and Hardware
-Final Wash Block for Assembly
-Prep Block for Assembly-install cam bearings, frost
plugs, and galley plugs. (parts NOT included)
Hot Tank Engine Block (Strip Block Bare

That package is $625, there was 36.50 in cam bearings and 395.00 in pistons so with tax and all the estimated total on that is $1,035. He is a good machinist who does good work right there in his own shop, he doesn't do stock rebuilds on honduh's and stuff just performance oriented builds. The price of pistons will be higher since my plan has now changed to a stroked 340 that will end up around 422" (has a ring to it I haven't been able to get out of my head) Thanks again to everyone who offers their help, this young gun appreciates it very much.​
 
Depending on what shape the block is in and what your stroker kit is, you may or may not want to line hone the mains, but that price isn't out of line from what I've come across.
 
I think for your market it's probably ok. Whether the work is great or not for the money is what you need to determine. I am buttoning up a customer's build and the machine work alone for the shortblock was $1200. Compared apples to apples with yours the total cost is closer to $1600.
 
green1 said:
Add align bore ( what about the crank? ) What is clearance for timing Chain?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure and am going to have to ask next time we talk, since everyone around here does chevy's maybe it has to do with them and he's assuming this will require it too. IDK just a guess.

The crank will probably be a new cast Scat 4" stroker through his supplier or since Mopar is a reboxed Scat (right?) maybe I'll get one there since I get 25% off MP parts.
 
wigsplitter74 said:
I'm not sure and am going to have to ask next time we talk, since everyone around here does chevy's maybe it has to do with them and he's assuming this will require it too. IDK just a guess.

The crank will probably be a new cast Scat 4" stroker through his supplier or since Mopar is a reboxed Scat (right?) maybe I'll get one there since I get 25% off MP parts.
Click to expand...

I don't think it is... But scat is still a nice crank.

And those prices don't sound bad. But I have no clue what clearancing the timing chain is. I don't know the market but that is a good bit of labor that they have to do. I will do all my own machining because I have access to a shop and I'm cheap and slightly ocd.
 
Does that include assembly? Other questions....what kind of horsepower do you figure? If it's high, I would consider ARP fasteners, True roller chain, high volume oil pump, and a HD oil pump drive. I don't see anything about connection rod work. At the least you need to shot peen and resize the big end. Of course it wouldn't be complete without a full balance including flywheel/flex plate, and harmonic balancer (fluid damper if it's a HiPo motor). That's just the beginning, What about cam and top end work?
Mark
 
As previously mentioned, what about align boring mains? As the main bearing bores are typically used for deck height reference, it seems logical to begin there. Also consider ARP main bolts when you buy block hardware.

Are you buying a complete rotating assembly "stroker kit"? Best to have all parts on hand prior to machine work on the block for a few reasons. First, most machinists prefer to have the pistons on hand so clearance can be set and an appropriate finish for the rings can be applied. Second, depending on crank/rod combo there may be clearancing of the block needed. Best to do this before the final washing and assembly. Third, in order to properly set deck height, crank, rods and pistons must be on hand for mock up.

And finally there comes the "sticker shock" aspect of the build. This stuff starts costing $$$ real fast, and to be honest a stroker is not exactly a cheap engine to do right. If you have $5000-6000 to spend on the engine, plus a couple thousand more for various supporting upgrades to your chassis,then by all means dive right in. BUT since you seem young and on a budget I would have to ask why not just rebuild a 360 and drive the car? You could have a stout 360, exhaust system, converter, front end kit, brakes and maybe even a coat of paint on the body for what that stroker will finally cost you. Something to consider...

Sorry if I didn't tell you what you wanted to hear, and I don't mean to insult you or your build. But you've asked for an honest opinion and I've given it.

BTW clearancing for timing chains is typical of fitting a double roller on a small Chevy, especially early small journal blocks and probably wont be an issue for you.
 
Sorry to reply late but some ARP fastners have been purchased already along with a few other misc. things, the rods were redone not long ago then never run so probably good their. I truly have no idea what kind of power to expect here as I don't know too many people with this kinda setup (I'm in a former GM plant town) I was going to rebuild my 360 but I've had this 340 for a while now and it's killing me to do nothing with it. As far as cost getting out of hand my machinist is also somewhat of a friend (tho I'm not getting special pricing) and I'm only taking steps as I can afford them with cash as I'm cheap and picky with money. The car still runs with a very stock 360 so I'm in no huge rush. Also I've got some parts to get rid of to help offset the cost of the motor so that will help along with me using a lot of what I have. When I built my car I planned ahead for the day I could afford a real motor so the chassis is pretty well setup along with the trans. I do appreciate everyone's honest opinions and support. I guess we could play the whole "how much HP game?" 520/540 solid cam, ported X heads, Holley strip dominator, proform 750dp, about 9.5:1CR, MSD ign. system, I really don't know how much to expect here.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top