Fusible link questions

A lot of information. I guess what I am wondering now is if replacing the fusible link with the original type is the best way to go?

It appears that if I am keeping the car's electrical stock and not adding on to it, then I can file the original fusible link under the "if it ain't broke" category, and they are not expensive to replace just waiting time for mailing.

My concern is since this is an 40 year old car, I might be leaving myself open to the risk of the fusible link burning out and leaving me somewhere- so should I consider replacing it with one from the chart and carry spare fuses?

The car's wiring was hacked up and the fusible link was simply bypassed. It was only when I got into it and reading up on it did I discover the purpose of that thing hanging from the bulkhead connector.

Now that I have sourced new and complete wiring for the whole car I will replace it all in the next few weeks- back to my concern of the old car and the potential to burn up all this wiring I spent so much time gathering.

Here is the chart from one of the links, but I am also concerned about walking into a parts store and finding someone who knows what a Hypalon Link or a MAXI Fuse is?

Circuit Hypalon Link Type MAXI Fuse Rating Circuit Wire
Alternator Feed (R6) 12 gauge (black) 160 amp (2x80 in parallel) 8 gauge (BK)
Radiator Fan (C26) 20 gauge (orange) 40 amp 14 gauge (GY)
Ignition Feed (J10) 18 gauge (grey) 50 amp 12 gauge (PK/BK*)
Ignition Feed (J1) 20 gauge (orange) 40 amp 12 gauge (RD)
ECU/ASD Feed (J1) 22 gauge (white) 30 amp 12 gauge (PK)
Direct Battery Feed (L1) 18 gauge (grey) 50 amp 12 gauge (RD/WT*)
Heated Rear Window (C13) 18 gauge (grey) 40 amp 12 gauge (BK/RD*)
Hazard Flasher (A3) 20 gauge (orange) 20 amp 14 gauge (PK)