pcv and thermostats for street strip cars ?

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Ace said:
So we are attributing 1/10 sec to 10 degrees engine temp. And this is objectively confirmed or tested how? I still don't think so.

I don't think anyone said anything of that nature at all.

Ace said:
OEMs were using 190 and 195 deg stats LONG before emissions standards ever played into it. I guess you guys know better how to operate an engine than the people who designed and built it.

First of all how do you figure that? Emissions devices started back in 1966. Secondly as Adam pointed out race engines and stock street engines are two distinct animals.

Ace said:
And OBTW, if the flow through your heads is staying in there long enough to be affected by as much as FIFTY degrees temperature difference, It must not even be running.

Who said anything about 50 degrees? Is that what you think it needs to be to be affected? If it is you are wrong again. My car is affected by as much as 1 degree. 1 degree equals .001 gain or reduction in ET, and that I can prove.

I'm not trying to be a jerk here but unless you have experience you shouldn't be stating subjective opinions as fact. I don't know you or even how old you are or what your experiences are but don't think you know it all. I'm 50 years old, been racing since I was 16 and I've been a dealership mechanic or service manager since I was 18 and I still learn new things nearly everyday. Open your mind and you'll learn, close it and you will be stonewalled my friend.
 
Uh, three things guitar boy: 1) I'm not your friend. 2) I don't think you can prove anything. 3) I don't care where you've been, how long you been doing it or anything else about you, for that matter. :thefinge:
 
My car always ran better at 150 to 160 when leaving the line. I've been told that it's better to have more heat in the motor to make power but thats not been my experience?
 
Nie tosee we can still agree to disagree ;) For what it's worth...Having a warm or cold engine doesnt effect the intake charge. At full throttle, atomization takes place at the venturi, but it's not really atomizing. It's dispersing various size fuel droplets. Some molecular, some much larger. Think otherwise? block your throttle to keep the engine above idle, say, 2500rpm, and point a timing light down the carb throat. Now, those droplets make the turn in the intake, and pass down the port. Not the whole port, mostly thru a few smaller spots in the flow path. As it travels, it picks up heat off the walls, but very little because of the boundry layer along the walls and floor. So really, aside from the intake valve head and seat, little heat is picked up from the head material during the intake stroke. The temp of the air, is important. The lower the better. Here's the rub. The parts were not machined at 200° on most of our engines. Temps change all dimensions. Your rings, pitons, valves, rockers, and headers are all designed to work at certain temperatures. NASCAR machines the parts while 240° water is run thru them, because that's the way they will be run on the track. Some engines will like to run cooler. Not because the air is better, because the oil, the tolerances, and various parts are most efficient in that engine at that temp. Heat is power. But it's heat created by combustion, and heat not lost INTO the cooling system. That heat needs to stay with the gasses aall the way out the exh header. If your engine gets too hot under full throttle, it's not heat efficient, or has a marginal cooing system. Genrally, the most power will be gotten from the hottest temp it can run with.
 
"What we have here...is failure to communicate. Some people you just can not reach."

Sorry you feel that way Ace.

I can't reprint the article from National Dragster but I did find this article by David. I high lighted the important part for those among us that are blind.

Tech Talk Article 49
"Wrist Pins and Unintended Consequences"
by David Reher
Page 1


As seen in...





I come from a family of teachers, so perhaps I’m genetically programmed to stand in front of a classroom. Maybe that’s the motivation behind the engine building classes that we conduct regularly at Reher-Morrison Racing Engines. What I’ve discovered, however, is that a teacher learns as much from the students as the students learn from the teacher.
When a racer attending one of our seminars asks why we prepare a part a certain way, I have to think about the experiences that led us to adopt a particular technique or choose a specific engine component. A case in point is the lowly wrist pin – one of the most overlooked yet most important components in any motor.

The wrist pin is a crucial link in the chain that connects the power to the pavement. It has to withstand the full force of the cylinder pressure while accelerating several thousand pounds of race car. Yet racers who will gleefully study cylinder head airflow graphs and camshaft profiles for hours seldom give any thought to the wrist pins in their engines. Let’s face it: Wrist pins simply aren’t sexy.

I’ve built racing engines for more than 30 years, and have always subscribed to the belief that lighter is better. But recently I’ve had to reevaluate my thinking in regard to wrist pins. I’ve come to the conclusion that as power levels have escalated, many racers are using wrist pins that are just too light. I’ve also realized that some of the parts that extract more horsepower from an engine also increase the stresses on the wrist pins. Racing isn’t exempt from the rule of unintended consequences: Every solution breeds new problems.

When selecting parts for a racing engine, the general rule is “light is good.” For example, a lightweight crankshaft assembly require less power to accelerate than a heavy crankshaft assembly, and therefore more of the engine’s output can be used to accelerate the race car. But if the parts are so light that they deflect and deform under high loads, then the result is the exact opposite – more friction is created and more power is siphoned off in the form of heat that destroys the pins, pistons, and connecting rods.

In reality, more power equals more cylinder pressure, so we have to select parts that are appropriate to the engine’s power levels. Once you go beyond a set of off-the-shelf pistons, the choices of wrist pin material, diameter and wall thickness become critical.

When a customer orders a set of wrist pins, the first question I ask is, “How powerful is the engine you’re building?” A set of tool steel wrist pins with a .090-inch wall thickness might be fine for a small-block Super Stock engine, but a 1,000-horsepower big-block typically needs pins with .150-inch wall thickness – and the pins must be correspondingly thicker for a nitrous-injected engine. The wrist pins used in blown alcohol and nitro-burning engines illustrate just how strong the pins must be to survive under extreme conditions.

A catastrophic pin failure is an expensive way to learn that the pins are too light. Fortunately there are some early warning signs that indicate the pins are overstressed. Black streaks in the pin bosses or the small ends of the connecting rods are danger signs. In more advanced cases there may be aluminum welded to the pins from the piston pin bosses and rods (in the case of aluminum rods). With steel rods, look for signs of distress in the bronze bushings in the small ends of the rods. These problems are usually the result of wrist pin deflection, insufficient clearance or inadequate lubrication.

Wrist pin problems were rampant in Pro Stock several years ago, and the cure was to apply some very expensive coatings. Spending $800 for coated pins is not a cost-effective solution for most sportsman racers, however; the object is to make as many runs as possible at a reasonable price. Assuming that the wrist pins have adequate strength, it’s possible to head off many problems simply by ensuring that the pins have adequate clearance and lubrication.

The crankcase in an engine with a conventional wet-sump oil pan is awash in oil. If there is a condition that’s heating up the wrist pins or stressing the piston and rod bores, the sheer volume of oil in the crankcase will carry off the excess heat. But a well-designed oil pan with a kick-out, crankshaft scraper and a vacuum pump (or a good dry-sump system) will dramatically reduce the amount of oil in the crankcase. While an efficient oil system reduces windage and increases horsepower, it can also put the wrist pins in jeopardy – another instance of unintended consequences. In fact, the wrist pins in the even-numbered cylinders are often the first to show signs of distress caused by insufficient lubrication because they are on the side of the engine that has much of its lubrication stripped away by the crankshaft scraper and oil pan kickout.

In this situation, my recommendation is to increase the wrist pin clearance. Most engine manuals recommend wrist pin clearances between .0008 and .0010-inch for conventional engines; my advice is to run .0020 to .0022-inch wrist pin clearance in a serious drag racing engine. My perspective on engine clearances is straightforward: When in doubt, a little loose will seldom result in catastrophic failure, but a little too tight will almost always cause problems.

Remember that drag racing engines are usually stone cold when they go down the race track. We start the engine and get to the staging lights as quickly as possible because a cold engine makes more power than a hot one. Consequently drag racers don’t have the luxury of an extended warm up period to bring all of the parts up to operating temperature. In these circumstances, a little extra clearance is a good thing.

I’m an advocate of double Spirolox pin retainers. Yes, they are a pain to install and remove, but that’s exactly what’s needed in a pin retainer – a lock that won’t come out on its own.

Wrist pins aren’t glamorous, but they are absolutely essential to the health and well being of a racing engine. Don’t scrimp on pins; a few extra grams of wrist pin weight can increase your engine’s life expectancy.

I'm sure I could provide more proof but if you'd like to actually see these principles in action then come on down, I'll still treat you like a friend.
 
My 1964 Valiant came from the factory with a 273,
and a PCV valve.{California cars started early}

I am using a 180f high flow t'stat.

A few years ago, I was drag racing a '67 Valiant 273,
I found that with a 180f t'stat I ran better times, than 160, or 195f.

I never tried running anything without a pcv valve,
as I want the oil fumes/vapor/pressure to get out of the engine,
and figure thats about the simplest way to do it.

A "normal" pcv valve will close if there is a backfire,
and not make the valve covers bulge/blow off.
I have seen that happen twice,
once on a drag race car, and once on the street.What a mess, when the oil got on the headers/ Uhoh Fire. :(
 
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