Two many power wires going to fuse box! Is there a better way?

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myasylum

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With all my gauges and my radio, I have about 4 positive wires connected to one fuse. Is this a bad idea? Is there a better way to wire these? Thanks!
 
If you want to feel safer, you can install a auxillary block and have a dedicated fuse to each componet. For me I`m doing the same thing you are, but I`m lazy sometimes and depend on luck too often, In reality, I hate contorting under these A body dashes. lol
 
If you want to feel safer, you can install a auxillary block and have a dedicated fuse to each componet. For me I`m doing the same thing you are, but I`m lazy sometimes and depend on luck too often, In reality, I hate contorting under these A body dashes. lol

No reason to fuse it all separately, though you certainly could. A good point of reference is your other car. Take a look at how a newer car is circuited and protected. My '06 Dodge is going to serve as a starting point for me in terms of number and size of circuits.
 
If you want to add extra accessories on these old cars like gauges, fans, electric fuel pumps, etc. You really should add an auxiliary fuse block, the factory wiring isn't designed to handle all the extra current from all the extra accessories that we like to use.

Just run a 10-12 gauge wire from the battery, starter or starter relay through a 30 amp fuse to an auxiliary fuse block and run your accessories off of it, the 30 amp fuse will protect against any issues with the extra circuit while the individual accessory will have it's own fuse.

If you want the power to go on with the key, then just install a 25-30 amp relay between the 30 amp fuse and the fuse block and then run a switch wire to the ign side of the factory fuse block and it will go on when you turn the key on with out being powered with the factory wiring.
 
What you really need to do is figure out how much total current you're pulling through that circuit by temporarily using an ammeter in series. My guess is you may be alright if you're not pulling more than the circuit was originally designed for. Whatever you do, do not use a bigger fuse unless you're sure of what you're doing. If you're really pulling a lot of current use another fuse and/or a relay if needed.
 
I installed a painless #70207 7-circuit fuse block inside my glove box, I attached it to the cardboard housing with a good ground. It has three constant hot circuits and four ignition hot circuits, simple instructions and works great.
 
what i just did the other day is i just got a seperate fuse buss from radio shack and got 12 guage wire, i have one going from the ballast resister and i have it split to go to two fuse spots, then another 12 guage wire going from the starter relay to the other two fuses. i dont know if ill have any problems. but i drove for about an hour total yesterday and never had any problems, no radio goin in and out or anything.
 
If you want to add extra accessories on these old cars like gauges, fans, electric fuel pumps, etc. You really should add an auxiliary fuse block, the factory wiring isn't designed to handle all the extra current from all the extra accessories that we like to use.

Just run a 10-12 gauge wire from the battery, starter or starter relay through a 30 amp fuse to an auxiliary fuse block and run your accessories off of it, the 30 amp fuse will protect against any issues with the extra circuit while the individual accessory will have it's own fuse.

If you want the power to go on with the key, then just install a 25-30 amp relay between the 30 amp fuse and the fuse block and then run a switch wire to the ign side of the factory fuse block and it will go on when you turn the key on with out being powered with the factory wiring.

Thats some good advice right there. Not a bad idea if your running a better sound system with an amp too.
 
what i just did the other day is i just got a seperate fuse buss from radio shack and got 12 guage wire, i have one going from the ballast resister and i have it split to go to two fuse spots, then another 12 guage wire going from the starter relay to the other two fuses. i dont know if ill have any problems. but i drove for about an hour total yesterday and never had any problems, no radio goin in and out or anything.

That is not a good idea, that is the ing circuit and not for accessories.
 
yeah, i wasnt sure if it was a good idea or not, but its been running fine and the battery is charging right around 15v so I wasnt too worried about it, where could i wire it instead where it wont be too stressful on the wiring?
 
The more connections you have the more voltage loss there will be over the length of any circuit. Plus, the hot feeds for these cars was not designed to do what we ask of it in regard to the electrical loads. I use a seperate buss bar and individual fuses for some things. A very easy way to get a great system is to grab the relay block from the engine bay of a RAM truck... Leave some wire length on it and cut it out. You get a nice set of relays and a great way to get additional power sources for anything you want. WHen I'm done, usually the only things on the factory fuse box are the radio, lighting (not headlamps), starter wiring, and gages. Fans, amps, CD/DVD players, pumps, etc all feed of the positive and negative buss which is hard wired to the battery cables.
 
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