Magnum Intake on LA engine?
Update.
Clunkered vehicles don't have to be shredded. PickN'Pull has a large sign "the clunkers are here". They spray purple paint on the engine blocks. I bought some 5.9L engine parts from a RAM and a Grand Cherokee. I wonder if the engines could be resurrected.
Before that visit, I bought a 5.9 Magnum intake on ebay. $90 w/ shipping and not as corroded as most. I figure PickNPull would probably charge that much. I also got a bag of Magnum intake sensors and IAC valves for $20 on ebay. List price ~$70 ea.
Photos below show the intake test fit on my '65 273. Clearance isn't a problem. The Jeep air inlet stands only ~1" above the throttle body (top of stud). I have another 2" to the hood, so could use a taller chrome after-market inlet w/ conical filter, which look better than the ugly black plastic duct and filter box. I have the thinner engine mounts (later engines). The original mounts are ~1" thicker (and 3x price). A close eye will see the fuel inlet is broken off. I didn't notice until today. Obvious in the ebay photo if you know what to look for (seller might have mentioned). Back to PickN'Pull. I also show the innards of the intake. A metal plate and gasket seal this. Nice place to hide contraband.
Bolting the intake requires more thought. My head holes are 25 deg off vertical (67+ are ~45 deg). I hoped they would line up so I could just bend a 7/16" stud. However, the intake holes are slightly further out so you see only ~1/2 of my holes when looking down, which I tried to photograph (shone light thru gap, need a macro lense). My holes have a slight counterbore, so cutting into the top edge would allow the studs to bend up earlier. The intake holes have an undercut counterbore in the casting (most), so studs could be bent to snake back to the intake centerlines. Another thought is to put inserts in each hole and use smaller studs (~1/4") for easier bending and clearance. I prefer buggering with the intake, though I just bought a seized 273 so not afraid to molest some heads. I also had to grind a little metal off the intake near the distibutor hole, where an oil passage bumps out slightly.
It will be a while before I move forward on this. Besides other projects, I need to work out a controller for fuel and ignition. Megasquirt isn't quite ready for sequential fuel and spark without clunky add-ons, plus I haven't seen any good prices lately. I am trying to get LS1 coils for spark. For now, I will bolt on an Edelbrock PF and use a Holley Economaster 450 cfm carb. I want to start driving the car and that will give a good baseline to see if MPI improves fuel economy. I have an RV cam (0.422/0.444), Edelbrock SureSeat springs (90 lb) and Rhoads leak-down lifters. The later improves low end torque and mileage, and less valve train wear, which concerned me with the stiffer springs.
Update.
Clunkered vehicles don't have to be shredded. PickN'Pull has a large sign "the clunkers are here". They spray purple paint on the engine blocks. I bought some 5.9L engine parts from a RAM and a Grand Cherokee. I wonder if the engines could be resurrected.
Before that visit, I bought a 5.9 Magnum intake on ebay. $90 w/ shipping and not as corroded as most. I figure PickNPull would probably charge that much. I also got a bag of Magnum intake sensors and IAC valves for $20 on ebay. List price ~$70 ea.
Photos below show the intake test fit on my '65 273. Clearance isn't a problem. The Jeep air inlet stands only ~1" above the throttle body (top of stud). I have another 2" to the hood, so could use a taller chrome after-market inlet w/ conical filter, which look better than the ugly black plastic duct and filter box. I have the thinner engine mounts (later engines). The original mounts are ~1" thicker (and 3x price). A close eye will see the fuel inlet is broken off. I didn't notice until today. Obvious in the ebay photo if you know what to look for (seller might have mentioned). Back to PickN'Pull. I also show the innards of the intake. A metal plate and gasket seal this. Nice place to hide contraband.
Bolting the intake requires more thought. My head holes are 25 deg off vertical (67+ are ~45 deg). I hoped they would line up so I could just bend a 7/16" stud. However, the intake holes are slightly further out so you see only ~1/2 of my holes when looking down, which I tried to photograph (shone light thru gap, need a macro lense). My holes have a slight counterbore, so cutting into the top edge would allow the studs to bend up earlier. The intake holes have an undercut counterbore in the casting (most), so studs could be bent to snake back to the intake centerlines. Another thought is to put inserts in each hole and use smaller studs (~1/4") for easier bending and clearance. I prefer buggering with the intake, though I just bought a seized 273 so not afraid to molest some heads. I also had to grind a little metal off the intake near the distibutor hole, where an oil passage bumps out slightly.
It will be a while before I move forward on this. Besides other projects, I need to work out a controller for fuel and ignition. Megasquirt isn't quite ready for sequential fuel and spark without clunky add-ons, plus I haven't seen any good prices lately. I am trying to get LS1 coils for spark. For now, I will bolt on an Edelbrock PF and use a Holley Economaster 450 cfm carb. I want to start driving the car and that will give a good baseline to see if MPI improves fuel economy. I have an RV cam (0.422/0.444), Edelbrock SureSeat springs (90 lb) and Rhoads leak-down lifters. The later improves low end torque and mileage, and less valve train wear, which concerned me with the stiffer springs.