273 rebuild costs?

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Dfnsmn34

Dfnsmn34

Margarita Mike
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I realize ..its what you want to build will determine the cost question...kind of like "What's it worth?"question. difficult to answer...:munky2:

But I want to get a felling for is how much is it gonna cost me, to rebuild my 273. She's burning oil..alot :pottytra:...and she still runs good :tongue7:...but at some point I need to pull the trigger and rebuild.

I would like to build her to have at least 200-220 hp. I see Kanter has a "master kit" for about $1500...with that (Don't know the specifics in the kit) am I looking at about $3k?

again just a rough guide to let me know how much I need to budget for...

thanks FABO!:cheers:
 
I figured $3000 for my rebuild. Pistons,rings,bearings,gaskets,cam,lifters,timing chain/gears,freezeplugs,valves,springs,carb overhaul,tuneup,fluids,machining
balancing, and head work. (did I forget anything?) I also went through my tranny and will rebuild the clutch. For those of you that say a 273 cost more to build you're correct. The pistons and rings cost more than a 318.
 
Thanks Toolmanmike! I'm with you though...it may cost more but its a 273...not many people spend the effort to rebuild them anymore. Plus I need to keep my baby as close to original as possible...heck I even tell people it has the factory air in the tires!

Aloha Mike
 
LOL !! How about some NOS grease?

100_4778.jpg
 
I'm sitting at around $2000 on mine. Assembly still in progress. $1100 at the machine shop (Clean, Bore .030, Hone, re-condition rods, Balance, Head Work, Crank grinding .010/.030), Plus new Egge Pistons, SP Rings, Clevite bearings, Racer Brown cam, lifters, melling oil pump, Felpro teardown set, Comp True-Roller Timing Set, new tools for assembly, etc. I suspect about another $500 before done.
 
if the bottom end is ok, then some #302 heads, performer intake, electronic ignition, and a stock HP cam would get you in the desired HP range. No since spending where it doesent need it.
 
Mahalo guys! all the info. is great.

Cudaguy...I will keep your suggestion in mind. I agree...no need to throw hard-earn and hard-to-come-by money around!

Aloha Mike
 
The pistons were the only thing I found that cost more than the 318. The rings were the same cost through O'Reilly Auto. I just reused my pistons. Sleeving a block is cheaper than new 273 hp slugs at $50 a hole and gets you a stronger block that will never wear out as fast. the cylinders that is, steel sleeves vs. iron holes. Steel wins. :)
 
Hey Dustin,

I ended up spending about $43/slug on my high compression pistons from Egge. I didnt think to sleeve it. I think with tax it was $355.05 with shipping. That included Pins and Retainers.

-- Tom
 
Only my front 2 cylinders had wear, so we just sleeved 2. So I got out for $100. I want to say, at the time Egge wanted $500 for the set and all that was listed was 20 and 40 over.
 
The stock 2bbl has 180HP so just adding a 4bbl and a decent exhaust should get you in the range you want. Have you determined why it's burning oil? If it's just the valve seals, they're not hard to install in the chassis. Might delay the inevitable for a while until you save up for a full rebuild.
 
cudamark said:
The stock 2bbl has 180HP so just adding a 4bbl and a decent exhaust should get you in the range you want. Have you determined why it's burning oil? If it's just the valve seals, they're not hard to install in the chassis. Might delay the inevitable for a while until you save up for a full rebuild.
Click to expand...

Got the 4 barrel, put on by the PO. Stock exhaust...well kinda... manifolds stock...2 into one still...

No I haven't researched what is the cause of the oil burning....but as much as it is burning...its got to be the oil rings. I think???

On start up it spits quite a bit of oil from the exhaust. Blue smoke when you get on her. Still has power though....looks like the cylinders 4, 6 and 8 plugs show more oil then the others...haven't tried the compression test...valve seals and oil rings faulty would show the same results right?

Aloha
 
My 273 was shot, I found the passenger side exhaust flapper was
stuck/froze Shut.

I rebuilt a 318, to replace the 273,
used a Mopar 4452759 cam,
{.430/.450 lift Basic Operating RPM 1,200-5,200}
and casting # 302 heads. :)

Duals off the stock exh. manifolds.

Lots more power than the 273 had.

Dfnsmn34 said:
Got the 4 barrel, put on by the PO. Stock exhaust...well kinda... manifolds stock...2 into one still...

No I haven't researched what is the cause of the oil burning....but as much as it is burning...its got to be the oil rings. I think???

On start up it spits quite a bit of oil from the exhaust. Blue smoke when you get on her. Still has power though....looks like the cylinders 4, 6 and 8 plugs show more oil then the others...haven't tried the compression test...valve seals and oil rings faulty would show the same results right?

Aloha
Click to expand...

d33bSmall.jpg
 
I have a 273 that i rebuilt a couple of years ago. I am taking it out of my 67 dart in favor of a 340 stroker. The egine runs great all it need is a distributor. I am thinking of selling it... I live in wv
 
If you decide to sell I may be interested. You can pm me with a cost.
 
Dfnsmn34 said:
Got the 4 barrel, put on by the PO. Stock exhaust...well kinda... manifolds stock...2 into one still...

No I haven't researched what is the cause of the oil burning....but as much as it is burning...its got to be the oil rings. I think???

On start up it spits quite a bit of oil from the exhaust. Blue smoke when you get on her. Still has power though....looks like the cylinders 4, 6 and 8 plugs show more oil then the others...haven't tried the compression test...valve seals and oil rings faulty would show the same results right?

Aloha
Click to expand...
Pull a valve cover and poke the seals with a small screw driver to see if they're petrified. (assuming they're still there!). If they're hard, broken, missing, replace them...
preferably with ones that fit tight around the guide boss.
Thanks, Mark
 
cudamark said:
Pull a valve cover and poke the seals with a small screw driver to see if they're petrified. (assuming they're still there!). If they're hard, broken, missing, replace them...
preferably with ones that fit tight around the guide boss.
Thanks, Mark
Click to expand...

Great advice...I'll do that. I'll let you know Mark.

Mahalo Mike
 
My 273 is on the engine stand now ready for reassembly. I have a little over $2000 at this point which includes: regrinding my cam, new lifters, valve springs, std. rings, rod and main bearing, hardened valve seats, 8 new exhaust valves, cooking and cleaning and machine work.

Thing that bothers me is no ligit 273 head gaskets are available..everybody sell the same head gasket for the 273-360 engine. Don't seem quite right.

And...I will reassemble to save a few bucks.
Hard to get below $2000 on a major rebuild these days.
 
pbiggs said:
My 273 is on the engine stand now ready for reassembly. I have a little over $2000 at this point which includes: regrinding my cam, new lifters, valve springs, std. rings, rod and main bearing, hardened valve seats, 8 new exhaust valves, cooking and cleaning and machine work.

Thing that bothers me is no ligit 273 head gaskets are available..everybody sell the same head gasket for the 273-360 engine. Don't seem quite right.

And...I will reassemble to save a few bucks.
Hard to get below $2000 on a major rebuild these days.
Click to expand...

Mahalo Pbiggs...what you said sounds like what I've been thinking...I'll check my valve seals first...
Aloha
 
Dfnsmn34 said:
Got the 4 barrel, put on by the PO. Stock exhaust...well kinda... manifolds stock...2 into one still...

No I haven't researched what is the cause of the oil burning....but as much as it is burning...its got to be the oil rings. I think???

On start up it spits quite a bit of oil from the exhaust. Blue smoke when you get on her. Still has power though....looks like the cylinders 4, 6 and 8 plugs show more oil then the others...haven't tried the compression test...valve seals and oil rings faulty would show the same results right?

Aloha
Click to expand...

Yes, Checking the Valve Stem Seals would be good, i bet they are pretty non-existent at this point. <$100, even if you buy tools.

The thing I see here is when you 'Get on it' and also get blue smoke, you either have Blow-By, or valve-guides that are done. Probably blow-By in my experience. If its valve-guides, the stem seals is a temporary fix, but will come back sooner or later.
 
Checker, Napa, Summit, Jegs, all would have them in stock or be able to order them if they dont.

Checker around here currently has all their tools 1/2 off. I picked up the stuff to change the VG Seals on my Son's /6 Volare. I picked up the spring compressor for $9.95, An air compressor connection to keep the valves seated for $9.99. And I had a friend give me the seals left over from his full teardown set (Umbrella and Cup style). I think for the V8's the felpro set should be less than $10 plus a valve cover gasket set.

The NAPA ones I put on my last 440 Build had metal clips on them to keep them in place. They werent the Felpro ones.

If given choice, pick all cup style, I dont care for the 'umbrella' ones they usually give you for exhaust.

Your link didnt work. heres one I pulled, not sure if it will work either. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=ss13955
 
cavemanmoron said:
My 273 was shot, I found the passenger side exhaust flapper was
stuck/froze Shut.

I rebuilt a 318, to replace the 273,
used a Mopar 4452759 cam,
{.430/.450 lift Basic Operating RPM 1,200-5,200}
and casting # 302 heads. :)

Duals off the stock exh. manifolds.

Lots more power than the 273 had.



d33bSmall.jpg
Click to expand...


find a 60's truck drivers side mani, its the same casting without the heat flapper holes/provisions. on a 1 15/16 opening every little bit helps...
 
PAW - Performance Automotive Warehouse Inc. 1-818-678-3000
Has the entire kit available to do your rebuild at a reasonable price.
 
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