Adjusting torsion bars
Not all of us have alignment equipment and some of us of like how easy the bolt turns when you are not lifting the car with a wrench.
None of it is a big deal. It's just the difference between the easy way and the hard way.
There is obviously nothing wrong with turning the bolt with the cars weight off of it. I would advise against the use of power tools. With locking threads, a fast turning bolt has a tendency, especially when dirty and rusted like our adjusters are, to gall.
Jouncing the car would only work if on sliding plates.
I don't have actual alignment equipment. I use a tape measure for toe, and a carpenters square and machinists scale for camber and caster. The measurements, and some trig, gives you the angles, or if you work backwards, input the angle you want to get the measurement. The wheel tilted in .26" (close enough to 1/4") at the top gives you 1° of negative camber. I go for the most caster I can get, but if you want to get them equal, just turn the wheel all the way left, measure camber on the left wheel (just the difference in inches between the top and bottom of the wheel from vertical), then turn the wheel right, and measure the right wheel. The difference in these measurements compared to what they are with the wheels pointed straight ahead, should be the same from side to side. That means that the caster is the same from side to side. You can turn the wheel left 20°, measure camber, then turn the wheel right 20°, and measure the camber again on the same wheel, put it in a formula, and get the actual caster, but who cares. I've done it out of curiosity, but I don't think it's necessary. There are cheap direct reading tools that mount on the wheel hub if you want to go that route. I'm cheap, and nobody touches my car. The tire shop can't even get the lug nuts right, even after I tell them about it first.
