Denso Alternator Installation
This is a quick overview for installing a Denso Alternator on a small block Mopar.
This installation is based upon the Amp meter bypass. This kit is designed to work with a non-AC car; you CAN use it with an AC car only if you change the pulleys out to a non-AC and use an AC kit that changes the mounting position of the compressor. In my case all the harnesses have been replaced - all wires are new. My harness is modified because normally you would have a fusable link supplying power to the dash - I removed that fusable link and replaced it with a Maxi fuse. This does not affect the Denso Alternator install but I thought I would throw that in for info only (you will see reason why as you read through this).
With the Cam and the square back 70 Amp Alternator my voltage at idle was between 13.5 - 13.7. After the conversion to the Denso my voltage at idle was at 14.1 - 14.2.
The parts needed are a 60 Amp Alternator for a 1986 Toyota Truck with a factory single groove pulley, an Alternator bracket kit, Mancini Racing (part #MRE6651 - this is for an LA motor using a 1970 or later water pump), The kit only comes with the brackets, bolts, instruction sheet and wiring diagram. You will need to purchase a plug for the back of the Alternator, some NAPA 14 gauge yellow wire (Part #785504 - 25 ft roll but only need 10 ft), NAPA fuse holder (Part #7822023), 10 Amp fuse, 8 gauge wire, connectors, maxi fuse holder, a 50 Amp maxi fuse, and a Gates belt 7460 (or a GoodYear Gator back belt 15466).
In reference to the plug that goes in the back of the Alternator - it does come with pig tails, however in my case, I removed the pig tails and matched up the connectors that fit inside that plug. By doing this you won't need to splice wires.
In the first picture you will see an overview of the parts needed for this project except for the 8 gauge wire (I had that already installed).
The second picture shows what the factory Alternator and wiring looked like (before the conversion).
Picture #3: take the blue field wire (which is part of original wiring), cut off the factory connector, and install the connector that you matched up to the plug. This is your ignition ON wire. Now take the yellow wire, and after installing the connector to it, this will be your battery sense wire. You need to run the wire from the Alternator to the battery side of the starter relay using the NAPA fuse holder. In some of the links you will hear about using a fusable link - I am not interested in starting a debate but a fuse will pop and save your wiring but a fusable link will burn for a period of time and could damage your wiring; or in this case it could damage the voltage regulator in the Alternator.
The fourth picture is the Alternator wired. When you compare the stock Alternator wired (picture 2) with this picture, you can see that by taking a little time you can make it look like a factory wiring job without using splices.
Fifth picture you will see the 50 Amp Maxi fuse - that is the battery feed for the Alternator. That is, again, where you connect the 12 volt sense wire.
Last picture - unplug voltage regulator and now you can remove the voltage regulator if you choose to do so. Remember the blue side is ignition hot so you can either tape it up and cut wires and seal them up.
Hopefully this is not too long and it is helpful. I have tried my best to list all parts necessary.
This is a quick overview for installing a Denso Alternator on a small block Mopar.
This installation is based upon the Amp meter bypass. This kit is designed to work with a non-AC car; you CAN use it with an AC car only if you change the pulleys out to a non-AC and use an AC kit that changes the mounting position of the compressor. In my case all the harnesses have been replaced - all wires are new. My harness is modified because normally you would have a fusable link supplying power to the dash - I removed that fusable link and replaced it with a Maxi fuse. This does not affect the Denso Alternator install but I thought I would throw that in for info only (you will see reason why as you read through this).
With the Cam and the square back 70 Amp Alternator my voltage at idle was between 13.5 - 13.7. After the conversion to the Denso my voltage at idle was at 14.1 - 14.2.
The parts needed are a 60 Amp Alternator for a 1986 Toyota Truck with a factory single groove pulley, an Alternator bracket kit, Mancini Racing (part #MRE6651 - this is for an LA motor using a 1970 or later water pump), The kit only comes with the brackets, bolts, instruction sheet and wiring diagram. You will need to purchase a plug for the back of the Alternator, some NAPA 14 gauge yellow wire (Part #785504 - 25 ft roll but only need 10 ft), NAPA fuse holder (Part #7822023), 10 Amp fuse, 8 gauge wire, connectors, maxi fuse holder, a 50 Amp maxi fuse, and a Gates belt 7460 (or a GoodYear Gator back belt 15466).
In reference to the plug that goes in the back of the Alternator - it does come with pig tails, however in my case, I removed the pig tails and matched up the connectors that fit inside that plug. By doing this you won't need to splice wires.
In the first picture you will see an overview of the parts needed for this project except for the 8 gauge wire (I had that already installed).
The second picture shows what the factory Alternator and wiring looked like (before the conversion).
Picture #3: take the blue field wire (which is part of original wiring), cut off the factory connector, and install the connector that you matched up to the plug. This is your ignition ON wire. Now take the yellow wire, and after installing the connector to it, this will be your battery sense wire. You need to run the wire from the Alternator to the battery side of the starter relay using the NAPA fuse holder. In some of the links you will hear about using a fusable link - I am not interested in starting a debate but a fuse will pop and save your wiring but a fusable link will burn for a period of time and could damage your wiring; or in this case it could damage the voltage regulator in the Alternator.
The fourth picture is the Alternator wired. When you compare the stock Alternator wired (picture 2) with this picture, you can see that by taking a little time you can make it look like a factory wiring job without using splices.
Fifth picture you will see the 50 Amp Maxi fuse - that is the battery feed for the Alternator. That is, again, where you connect the 12 volt sense wire.
Last picture - unplug voltage regulator and now you can remove the voltage regulator if you choose to do so. Remember the blue side is ignition hot so you can either tape it up and cut wires and seal them up.
Hopefully this is not too long and it is helpful. I have tried my best to list all parts necessary.
