Pulling the engine from underneath?

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MopaR&D

MopaR&D

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The first time I pulled the 318 from my Duster I did it the 'normal' way, detaching it from the trans and pulling it out the top. I want to do it again, but since I intend to also replace the K-frame with a '73-up unit and convert from automatic to 4-speed manual as well as swap the rear-end I figured it would be easier to drop everything from the bottom and lift the car... Who on here has removed the drivetrain this way and what specific techniques are needed? Mainly, where is the transmission disconnected so it can drop out easily from the bottom?
 
easy! leave the tranny, motor, and complete k-frame all connected. remove the t-bars, unbolt the shocks and steering coupler, take out the drive shaft, unbolt the rear tranny mount with tranny supported in the back, undo all your linkages. then use an engine hoist chained to a solid piece of heavy lumber or steel mounted cross wise and fastened to the underside of the frame rail with clamps just behind the radiator support. unbolt the k-frame and start lifting. with a dolly or something with wheels, you can just roll the whole shibang out from underneath once you've got the front of car high enough to clear. good luck
 
Don't forget the fuel lines, tranny lines and ground/hot wires! LOL.

I have seen a chain bolted at the bumper supports. (Missing bumper) and lifted from there. A hoist can really lift the car body up high that way. Chock the wheels.

On the tranny's cross member, once unbolted, it may drop. It is doubtful, but possible. Also, you may want to drain the tranny first. Once the drive shaft slips out, if it falls or tilts, the fluid will run like water all over.
 
And the rest of the suspension needs to be disconnected. Either at the lca mount, the lbj mount, or the upj mount.

This is actually how the factory installed them. Makes everything a Lot easier! Just another wonderful thing about mopars!
 
Be sure to remember the position of the torsion bars when you remove them so when you install the new K frame that you can line up the torsion bars in the original position.
 
"And the rest of the suspension needs to be disconnected. Either at the lca mount, the lbj mount, or the upj mount."

just the uca mounts (cam bolts)
 
Thanks guys, sounds a lot easier than I thought it would be! I'm going with new 1" t-bars so the indexing won't be an issue. My neighbor (Ford guy) who will be helping was a bit skeptical when I told him about pulling the drivetrain from underneath but now I'll be able to reassure him.
 
I've done it both ways and now "Out the bottom" is the olnly way I'll go. Here are a couple pic's.

Here is a cradle I welded up to make rolling it around easier.

enginecradle1.jpg


here is the cradle on the bottom of the engine/trans showing how it fits.

enginecradle.jpg


Here is the engine/trans on the floor. Notice the headers are already in place (easy) and the suspension is all complete.

engine+on+floor.jpg


Here is the body lifted over the engine and trans. I have a couple lifts but it also just as easy on the floor.

comming+out.jpg
 
Slappy said:
Hey crazyforcars can you make me one of those!
Click to expand...

Crazy 4 Carz

I made it up with scrap I had laying around. It isn't difficult to make, and a good project to practice welding on! Freight would also likely cost more than it is worth.

I have to be picky about the spelling because it is the name of my website and you cant get there is you spell it wrong. Crazy4Carz.

Thanks!!
 
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