Floor Pan Help
I made my own floor pan, but of course that depends strictly on you and your skills and tools.
I used 16ga. steel, Cardboard (to make a template 1st), grinder, cutting wheel, welder, and grinding wheel.
Once I got the card board template so that it covered all of the area that needed repair, and was following all of the basic bends. I transferred it to the steel. I didn't worry about the convex or concave shapes unless it was really severe. Otherwise, I placed in the new piece for a test fit, went under the car and marked where the frame rail was, drilled some holes through the new pan. I used the holes to "plug weld" to the frame. This was to mimic the original "spot welds".
Then where I had the convex / concave shapes, I used a hammer and dolly to get the curves in, where ever they were needed in order to make the floor look like it used to be.
Now as it was pointed out earlier, the "ribs" in the floor are for structure. I am getting around not having them in there by #1 I welded more surface area than the original floor had. 2. I am installing torque boxes (that will limit the flex too), and I will also be installing sub frame connectors (again limiting flex).
So I wasn't to concerned about the ribs that were missing since I knew I was going to install the other stiffening items.
In your case, if you don't add other stiffeners, then more weld in the appropriate places would really suffice. Keep in mind... It would still be stronger than the hole in the floor is now!!!
LOL
Here is a pic of mine when I did it back then. Couple years ago.
I made my own floor pan, but of course that depends strictly on you and your skills and tools.
I used 16ga. steel, Cardboard (to make a template 1st), grinder, cutting wheel, welder, and grinding wheel.
Once I got the card board template so that it covered all of the area that needed repair, and was following all of the basic bends. I transferred it to the steel. I didn't worry about the convex or concave shapes unless it was really severe. Otherwise, I placed in the new piece for a test fit, went under the car and marked where the frame rail was, drilled some holes through the new pan. I used the holes to "plug weld" to the frame. This was to mimic the original "spot welds".
Then where I had the convex / concave shapes, I used a hammer and dolly to get the curves in, where ever they were needed in order to make the floor look like it used to be.
Now as it was pointed out earlier, the "ribs" in the floor are for structure. I am getting around not having them in there by #1 I welded more surface area than the original floor had. 2. I am installing torque boxes (that will limit the flex too), and I will also be installing sub frame connectors (again limiting flex).
So I wasn't to concerned about the ribs that were missing since I knew I was going to install the other stiffening items.
In your case, if you don't add other stiffeners, then more weld in the appropriate places would really suffice. Keep in mind... It would still be stronger than the hole in the floor is now!!!
LOL
Here is a pic of mine when I did it back then. Couple years ago.