Let's hear your 'budget-minded' 340 combos - nothing wild please so no strokers, aluminum heads, roller cams or high compression stuff. Just hi-po street/mild strip engines putting out around 400 HP (1.76 hp per cube) if that is possible on a budget. This is for stock stroke 340 based engines only. Ballpark estimates of build cost would be helpful and performance reports would be nice if you have them.
Ball park ets. prices are subjective and vary due to machinest used. Here, on the Island, you could go to S&K Speed and have this done. Theres also LAB in the copaige area. LAB charges a bit more, but also create a superior engine often seen at the circle track.
So overall, prices are hard to quote based on unknown work needed, parts resized or replaced and overall cost over another part. Superior part in, superior engine out. Same with the machinest used and thinking behind the overall package.
I have on hand already - two bare 340 blocks that need machined and the rotating assy. balanced. I got a few variations of forged small block cranks, full floating rods from my 318 I can use, plus a new water pump and single groove pulley set.
OK, Block that needs work
rotating assembly that needs balancing with what ever carnk and rods are OK'd for use.
Lets start with the rods. Have them checked out. New rods can very well be cheaper, even for certain if they need to be resized. For certain, use the floaters.
I would need to get oiling stuff including pan and pickup, pump, bearings, damper, timing chain, new rod bolts and pistons to complete the short block.
I have a pan, brand new pick up and IIRC, a pump. PM with an offer, I'll drive by when your ready.
Bearings will be purchased when the crank is checked and used with the balancing of the pistons which will be decided after the block is machined and a known size is finished.
If you get new rod bolts, the big ends need to be resized and the rods re-balanced. This has just become more expensive than new rods almost if not for sure and there weaker than new rods. Still good for over 450 HP, but that's not the point.
I have a Strip Dom. intake and a 6139 800 CFM TQ for induction but that's it. I also got a Holley blue electric fuel pump, Mopar elec. dizzy and an MSD 6.
The strip Dom. is an excellent intake. It may need work to fit under the stock valve covers or the MP wrinkles. (Personnaly, I'm going to mill the intake to fit under the valve covers on mine rather than notch the valve covers. This way, that intake fits anything.)
That 800 cfm T-Q is best swapped out for a larger 850 because the primaries are on the small side.
An electric pump is not needed. A mechanical pump will do. A Carter street strip pump will fit the bill well.
The MP distrib and MSD are excelent.
Would like to use as many factory stock type parts as possible. Planning on a thorough blueprint job. Thanks for your input!
Re-useing factory parts is a good route for inexpensive re-builds. Rods exempt.
I figure, your useing aftermarket headers, cam and valve train, what about a torquee converter. Staying with a stock one. What about the gear ratio and the tire size intended?
If you stay with a stock torque converter, this will limit the cam size, nothing else. You can still get the car to run fast in the 1/4, but you will not have a good short 60' time.
Performance pistons may cost more, but they also handle more, give more ceiling and longer life over basic cast replacements with the intedned power your looking for.
Just food for thought.
